Flament F, Bazin R, Piot B
Department of Applied Research and Development, L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Chevilly-Larue, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Jun;37(3):291-7. doi: 10.1111/ics.12198. Epub 2015 Mar 31.
Facial clinical signs and their integration are the basis of perception than others could have from ourselves, noticeably the age they imagine we are. Facial modifications in motion and their objective measurements before and after application of skin regimen are essential to go further in evaluation capacities to describe efficacy in facial dynamics. Quantification of facial modifications vis à vis gravity will allow us to answer about 'control' of facial shape in daily activities.
Standardized photographs of the faces of 30 Caucasian female subjects of various ages (24-73 year) were successively taken at upright and supine positions within a short time interval. All these pictures were therefore reframed - any bias due to facial features was avoided when evaluating one single sign - for clinical quotation by trained experts of several facial signs regarding published standardized photographic scales.
For all subjects, the supine position increased facial width but not height, giving a more fuller appearance to the face. More importantly, the supine position changed the severity of facial ageing features (e.g. wrinkles) compared to an upright position and whether these features were attenuated or exacerbated depended on their facial location. Supine station mostly modifies signs of the lower half of the face whereas those of the upper half appear unchanged or slightly accentuated. These changes appear much more marked in the older groups, where some deep labial folds almost vanish. These alterations decreased the perceived ages of the subjects by an average of 3.8 years.
Although preliminary, this study suggests that a 90° rotation of the facial skin vis à vis gravity induces rapid rearrangements among which changes in tensional forces within and across the face, motility of interstitial free water among underlying skin tissue and/or alterations of facial Langer lines, likely play a significant role.
面部临床体征及其综合表现是他人对我们形成认知的基础,尤其是他们所认为的我们的年龄。面部动态变化以及皮肤护理前后的客观测量,对于进一步提升面部动态疗效描述的评估能力至关重要。对面部相对于重力变化的量化,将使我们能够回答日常活动中面部形状的“控制”问题。
在短时间间隔内,先后对30名不同年龄(24 - 73岁)的白种女性受试者的面部进行标准化拍照,拍照姿势分别为直立位和仰卧位。所有这些照片都经过重新构图——在评估单个体征时避免因面部特征产生任何偏差——以便由训练有素的专家根据已发表的标准化摄影量表对多个面部体征进行临床评分。
对于所有受试者,仰卧位增加了面部宽度但未增加高度,使面部看起来更丰满。更重要的是,与直立位相比,仰卧位改变了面部衰老特征(如皱纹)的严重程度,这些特征是减轻还是加重取决于其在面部的位置。仰卧位主要改变面部下半部的体征,而上半部的体征则保持不变或略有加重。这些变化在老年组中更为明显,一些深深的唇褶几乎消失。这些改变使受试者的感知年龄平均降低了3.8岁。
尽管本研究尚属初步,但它表明面部皮肤相对于重力90°的旋转会引发快速的重新排列,其中面部内部和跨面部的张力变化、皮肤组织间自由水的流动性以及/或者面部朗格线的改变,可能起到了重要作用。