Flament Frederic, Abric Aurelie, Adam Anne-Sophie
L'Oréal Research and Innovation, Chevilly-Larue, France.
Eurosyn, Villebon-sur-Yvette, France.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Mar;20(3):842-853. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13612. Epub 2020 Aug 17.
New gratification assessments, after skincare routines or makeup products, could benefit from innovative methods that could predict the culturally based perceptions of age.
To determine the facial signs that most influence the perception of age in women of five different ethnic ancestries, assessed by the same ethnical naïve panel.
PATIENTS/METHODS: The faces of 1351 women, differently aged (18-80 years), from five countries (China, France, India, Japan, and South Africa) were photographed under the same standardized conditions in the five countries. Fourteen to 24 facial signs (grouped under five clusters, ie, Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, Pigmentation disorders, Vascular disorders, and Cheeks skin pores) were focused, and their respective severities were graded using referential Skin Aging Atlases by the same panel of 15 experts and dermatologists. Five naïve panels, all comprising 100 local women, allowed to collect the perceived age, assessed from blind-coded full-face photographs.
Although perceived ages and real ages were found highly correlated, their differences vary according to ethnicities, particularly among a large part of Indian and South African women, judged older by about 5 and 7 years, respectively. Results show that the clusters of Wrinkles/Texture and Ptosis/Sagging are predominant factors taken into account in almost all ethnicities, albeit at various extents, reaching almost 100% in French women. Pigmentation disorders appear important secondary factors in Japanese, South African, and Indian women. Vascular disorders, of a difficult grading in darker skin tones, were found of some impact in Japanese and Chinese women. Cheek skin pores were of minor or nil weight in the attribution of age, at the exception of South African women. Regarding facial areas which drive aging perception, it seems the upper-half face has prevalence for Chinese and Japanese women whereas the lower-half face has major importance for South African women.
Facial traits are differently perceived as signs of aging according to un-separable ethnic ancestries and cultural factors.
在护肤程序或使用化妆品后进行新的满意度评估，可受益于能预测基于文化的年龄认知的创新方法。
确定由同组未受过专业训练的人员评估的、对五个不同种族血统女性的年龄认知影响最大的面部特征。
患者/方法：在五个国家相同的标准化条件下，拍摄了来自五个国家（中国、法国、印度、日本和南非）的1351名不同年龄（18 - 80岁）女性的面部照片。聚焦了14至24个面部特征（分为五个类别，即皱纹/质地、上睑下垂/皮肤松弛、色素沉着紊乱、血管紊乱和脸颊毛孔），由15名专家和皮肤科医生组成的同组人员使用参考性皮肤老化图谱对其各自的严重程度进行分级。五个未受过专业训练的小组，每组均由100名当地女性组成，通过对全脸照片进行盲编码来收集她们感知到的年龄。
尽管发现感知年龄与实际年龄高度相关，但它们的差异因种族而异，尤其是在很大一部分印度和南非女性中，她们分别被认为比实际年龄大5岁和7岁左右。结果表明，皱纹/质地和上睑下垂/皮肤松弛类别在几乎所有种族中都是主要考虑因素，尽管程度不同，在法国女性中几乎达到100%。色素沉着紊乱在日本、南非和印度女性中似乎是重要的次要因素。血管紊乱在较深肤色中分级困难，在日本和中国女性中发现有一定影响。脸颊毛孔在年龄判断中权重较小或几乎没有影响，南非女性除外。关于影响衰老认知的面部区域，似乎上半脸对中国和日本女性更为重要，而下半脸对南非女性更为重要。
根据不可分割的种族血统和文化因素，面部特征被不同地视为衰老的标志。
