Sikora E, Michorczyk P, Olszańska M, Ogonowski J
Institute of Organic Chemistry and Technology, Cracow University of Technology, Warszawska St. 24, 31-155 Cracow, Poland.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Dec;37(6):574-8. doi: 10.1111/ics.12234. Epub 2015 May 25.
The aim of this work was an elaboration of mild cleansing compositions, containing supercritical CO2 extract from strawberry seeds (SC-CO2 strawberry seed oil), as a moisturizing and skin-softening agent. The influence of concentration of the oil on user properties of shower/bath products was studied.
A series of products (shower/bath cosmetics) composed mainly of mild surfactants (amphoacetates, sulfosuccinates, betaines) and containing different amounts of the oil (0.5 up to 5.0%) were prepared. For the stable products (formulations containing up to 2% of the oil), the influence of the SC-CO2 strawberry seed oil addition on the products' stability, foam ability, surface tension, pH and rheological properties was studied. Moreover, the skin compatibility and moisturizing efficiency of the cleansing products were recorded in a group of 15 volunteers (including 10 women and five men, aged 20-30 years), using skin diagnosis system AramoTS, Aram Huvis Co. Additionally, characterization of CO2 extract from strawberry seeds was performed. Measurements of the oil's analytical constants, that is acid value and saponification number, were conducted according to Polish Standard PN-EN ISO 660:2010 and PN-EN ISO 3657:2013, respectively.
The oil concentration influences stability of the products. Only the formulations containing 0.5-2% of the extract have shown high stability. Moreover, used in the amount up to 2% the SC-CO2, strawberry seed oil does not affect significantly the cleansing and foaming properties of the products. The obtained shower/bath cosmetics showed good user properties and additionally good skin-moisturizing effect.
The supercritical CO2 extract from strawberry seeds, rich source of unsaturated fatty acid, could be successfully used in the formulation of body washing compositions as a moisturizing and skin-softening agent.
本研究旨在研制温和清洁组合物，该组合物含有草莓籽超临界二氧化碳提取物（SC-CO2草莓籽油），作为保湿和皮肤软化剂。研究了该油浓度对沐浴产品使用性能的影响。
制备了一系列主要由温和表面活性剂（两性乙酸盐、磺基琥珀酸盐、甜菜碱）组成且含有不同量该油（0.5%至5.0%）的产品（沐浴化妆品）。对于稳定产品（含油量高达2%的配方），研究了添加SC-CO2草莓籽油对产品稳定性、泡沫能力、表面张力、pH值和流变学性质的影响。此外，使用ARAMO TS皮肤诊断系统（ARAM Huvis公司），在一组15名志愿者（包括10名女性和5名男性，年龄20 - 30岁）中记录了清洁产品的皮肤相容性和保湿效果。另外，对草莓籽二氧化碳提取物进行了表征。分别根据波兰标准PN-EN ISO 660:2010和PN-EN ISO 3657:2013对该油的分析常数（即酸值和皂化值）进行了测定。
油浓度会影响产品稳定性。只有含有0.5 - 2%提取物的配方显示出高稳定性。此外，SC-CO2草莓籽油用量高达2%时，对产品的清洁和起泡性能没有显著影响。所制得的沐浴化妆品具有良好的使用性能以及良好的皮肤保湿效果。
富含不饱和脂肪酸的草莓籽超临界二氧化碳提取物可成功用于沐浴组合物配方中，作为保湿和皮肤软化剂。
