Moravkova T, Filip P
Institute of Hydrodynamics, Acad. Sci. Czech Rep., Pod Patankou 5, 166 12 Prague 6, Czech Republic.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016 Dec;38(6):558-566. doi: 10.1111/ics.12319. Epub 2016 Apr 5.
Evaluation of sensory attributes of cosmetic products is traditionally based on sensory panels. However, in some cases, a suitable candidate method that can reduce time and costs is the use of instrumental analysis that can detect relatively very small changes of entry ingredients. Such approach has been already applied for emollients, salt content, stabilizers, etc. The aim of this contribution is to apply the relations between sensory analysis and rheology to a series of body lotions differing in the contents of emulsifiers and viscosity regulators.
Sensory and rheological analyses are related. Rheological analysis can represent a good alternative to basic orientation in chosen customer's feelings. A rotational rheometer is the only instrumental device required for the measurements.
An empirical rheological model was proposed by means of which the selected sensory attributes were evaluated using the numerical values of adjustable model parameters. This approach exhibited a very good agreement with the results obtained by the sensory panel.
It was shown that a description of chosen sensory attributes can be responsibly carried out by rheological measurements, that is through the attained numerical values of the parameters appearing in a proposed empirical model characterizing shear viscosity of body lotions.
传统上，化妆品感官属性的评估是基于感官小组进行的。然而，在某些情况下，一种能够减少时间和成本的合适替代方法是使用仪器分析，它能够检测进入成分相对非常微小的变化。这种方法已经应用于润肤剂、盐含量、稳定剂等方面。本论文的目的是将感官分析和流变学之间的关系应用于一系列在乳化剂和粘度调节剂含量上有所不同的身体乳液。
感官分析和流变学分析相关。流变学分析对于了解目标客户的感受来说是一种很好的基本定位替代方法。测量仅需一台旋转流变仪这一仪器设备。
提出了一个经验流变学模型，通过该模型利用可调模型参数的数值来评估所选的感官属性。这种方法与感官小组获得的结果非常吻合。
结果表明，通过流变学测量，即通过在所提出的表征身体乳液剪切粘度的经验模型中出现的参数的数值，可以可靠地描述所选的感官属性。
