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一款抗妊娠纹水包油乳膏开发的初步研究:超声评估、质地分析和感官分析。

Preliminary study on the development of an antistretch marks water-in-oil cream: ultrasound assessment, texture analysis, and sensory analysis.

作者信息

Bogdan Cătălina, Moldovan Mirela L, Man Ioana Manuela, Crișan Maria

机构信息

Department of Dermopharmacy and Cosmetics, Faculty of Pharmacy.

Department of Histology, Faculty of Medicine, University of Medicine and Pharmacy "Iuliu Hațieganu", Cluj-Napoca, Romania.

出版信息

Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016 Sep 6;9:249-55. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S107298. eCollection 2016.

Abstract

PURPOSE

Striae distensae represent the result of the failure of the dermis to sustain intrinsic mechanical forces. Intensive moisturization of the lesions and use of emollient oils have been recommended for the prevention and treatment of striae distensae rubra. The aim of this research was to formulate an emollient water-in-oil cosmetic cream containing argan oil, which may be helpful in the prevention or early treatment of striae distensae.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Sensory evaluation of the consistency, firmness, adhesiveness, oiliness, spreadability, and rapidity of penetration into the skin was evaluated by 22 volunteers using 10-point scales for each descriptor. The instrumental characterization of the cream was performed using Brookfield(®) CT3 Texture Analyzer. The cutaneous changes induced by the topical use of the cream were evaluated by assessing the thickness of the epidermis, hydration, and elasticity of the skin using DermaLab(®) Combo scanner.

RESULTS

Ultrasound measurements showed an improvement in the elasticity of the epidermis following the application of cream. The product was well tolerated and appreciated by the consumers in terms of its spreadability, penetration ability, and lack of stickiness. The values recorded for texture analysis were firmness 10.16±0.15 mJ, adhesiveness 30.94±6.87 g, consistency 1229.50±119.78 g, spreadability 481.50±39 g, and stringiness 0.56±0.09 mJ.

CONCLUSION

A water-in-oil cream containing argan oil and emollient ingredients with appropriate physical characteristics was obtained. In vivo study of clinical efficacy revealed a positive effect on increasing the skin elasticity, suggesting that the cream may be helpful in the prevention or early treatment of striae distensae.

摘要

目的

膨胀纹是真皮无法承受内在机械力的结果。对于膨胀纹红斑的预防和治疗,建议对皮损进行强化保湿并使用润肤油。本研究的目的是配制一种含有摩洛哥坚果油的油包水型润肤美容霜,其可能有助于预防或早期治疗膨胀纹。

患者与方法

22名志愿者使用10分制量表对每种描述符的稠度、硬度、黏附性、油腻感、铺展性和皮肤渗透速度进行感官评估。使用Brookfield(®) CT3纹理分析仪对该面霜进行仪器表征。通过使用DermaLab(®) Combo扫描仪评估表皮厚度、皮肤水合作用和弹性,来评估局部使用该面霜引起的皮肤变化。

结果

超声测量显示涂抹面霜后表皮弹性有所改善。该产品在铺展性、渗透能力和不黏腻方面耐受性良好且受到消费者喜爱。纹理分析记录的值为:硬度10.16±0.15 mJ、黏附性30.94±6.87 g、稠度1229.50±119.78 g、铺展性481.50±39 g、拉丝性0.56±0.09 mJ。

结论

获得了一种含有摩洛哥坚果油和具有适当物理特性的润肤成分的油包水型面霜。临床疗效的体内研究显示对增加皮肤弹性有积极作用,表明该面霜可能有助于预防或早期治疗膨胀纹。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/91e4/5019162/ad35fd7f4055/ccid-9-249Fig1.jpg

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