Werner Milena, Herling Marianne, Garbe Birgit, Theek Carmen, Tronnier Hagen, Heinrich Ulrike, Braun Nicole
DermaTronnier GmbH & Co. KG, Institute for Experimental Dermatology, Witten/Herdecke University, Witten, Germany.
Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2017;30(6):284-291. doi: 10.1159/000480301. Epub 2017 Oct 4.
Today, the sun protection factor (SPF) value of sunscreen products is determined in vivo with a standardized protocol (EN ISO 24444:2010), and the measured SPF biological end point is the visible skin erythema. However, many of the sunscreen products currently available on the market have antiphlogistic ingredients, which may potentially result in an overestimated SPF of the sunscreen.
To investigate the potential influence of the antiphlogistic ingredients panthenol and bisabolol in sunscreens on the determined SPF value in vivo.
Formulations with different concentrations of the antiphlogistic ingredients bisabolol or panthenol were tested. As a reference, a base formulation (vehicle) without antiphlogistic ingredients was used. First, the SPF of the sunscreen formulas with and without antiphlogistic ingredients was analyzed in vitro. To investigate whether the antiphlogistic ingredient may suppress the inflammatory response to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, the SPF was determined in vivo. Finally, selected formulations were also analyzed in an erythema model for testing formulations on UV-induced inflammation.
It could be confirmed that no differences between the formula with and that without the active antiphlogistic ingredients bisabolol or panthenol exist when measured in vitro. However, there was also no statistically significant difference in the erythemal response between the vehicle (without an antiphlogistic active ingredient) and the test formulations with different concentrations of the antiphlogistic active ingredients in the in vivo determination of the SPF. Evidence of anti-inflammatory activity of the sunscreen antiphlogistics bisabolol and panthenol was also not apparent in the UV model over a time course of 48 h. Conlusion: The antiphlogistic ingredients panthenol and bisabolol incorporated in the tested sunscreen formula do not interfere with erythema reddening and thus do not affect the SPF value in vivo.
如今，防晒产品的防晒系数（SPF）值是通过标准化方案（EN ISO 24444:2010）在体内测定的，所测得的SPF生物学终点是可见的皮肤红斑。然而，目前市场上许多防晒产品都含有消炎成分，这可能会导致防晒产品的SPF值被高估。
研究防晒产品中的消炎成分泛醇和红没药醇对体内测定的SPF值的潜在影响。
测试了含有不同浓度红没药醇或泛醇这两种消炎成分的配方。作为对照，使用了不含消炎成分的基础配方（赋形剂）。首先，对含和不含消炎成分的防晒配方进行体外SPF分析。为了研究消炎成分是否会抑制对紫外线（UV）照射的炎症反应，进行了体内SPF测定。最后，还在红斑模型中对选定的配方进行分析，以测试其对紫外线诱导炎症的作用。
可以确认，在体外测量时，含有活性消炎成分红没药醇或泛醇的配方与不含该成分的配方之间没有差异。然而，在体内测定SPF时，赋形剂（不含消炎活性成分）与含有不同浓度消炎活性成分的测试配方之间的红斑反应也没有统计学上的显著差异。在48小时的时间过程中，防晒消炎成分红没药醇和泛醇的抗炎活性在紫外线模型中也不明显。结论：受试防晒配方中所含的消炎成分泛醇和红没药醇不会干扰红斑发红，因此不会影响体内的SPF值。
