Université de Nantes, Nantes Atlantique Universités, Nantes, France.
Arch Dermatol Res. 2012 Dec;304(10):817-21. doi: 10.1007/s00403-012-1257-x. Epub 2012 Jun 16.
When determined in vitro, the SPF of certain commercial sunscreen products can be lower than the SPF indicated on the label. The study of the composition of this type of product enabled us to note that the majority contained substances reputed to have anti-inflammatory properties. This effect is shown by inhibiting the erythema, without protecting the skin, which constitutes a serious public health problem. The anti-inflammatory effects of αbisabolol-, allantoin- and 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid-based emulsions, as well as commercial sun products containing any one of these molecules, have been tested with phorbol myristate acetate on mice. The effectiveness of these sunscreens products is quantified using two indicators: SPF (sun protection factor) and PF-UVA (protection factor-UVA) by in vitro method. We were thus able to show that certain sun products have an anti-inflammatory effect, which in turn causes the SPF value shown on the product to be overestimated, indeed sometimes by considerably large margins.
当在体外确定时,某些商业防晒霜的 SPF 值可能低于标签上标明的 SPF 值。对这类产品的成分研究使我们注意到,它们大多数都含有据称具有抗炎特性的物质。这种效应是通过抑制红斑来显示的,而没有保护皮肤,这构成了一个严重的公共卫生问题。基于 α- 胡萝卜素醇、尿囊素和 18-β-甘草次酸的乳液以及含有这些分子中任何一种的商业防晒产品的抗炎作用已在小鼠上用肉豆蔻酸佛波酯进行了测试。通过体外方法,使用两个指标:SPF(防晒因子)和 PF-UVA(UVA 保护因子)来定量这些防晒霜产品的有效性。因此,我们能够表明某些防晒产品具有抗炎作用,这反过来又导致产品上显示的 SPF 值被高估,有时甚至被大大高估。