Filipović Mila, Gledović Ana, Lukić Milica, Tasić-Kostov Marija, Isailović Tanja, Pantelić Ivana, Vuleta Gordana, Savić Snežana
Vojnosanit Pregl. 2016 Nov;73(11):991-1002. doi: 10.2298/VSP150116122F.
BACKGROUND/AIM: Since skin moisturization may be achieved by both actives and chosen carrier, plant stem cells, squalene and natural alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier may be potential components of contemporary cosmetic products. The aim of the study was in vivo evaluation of the skin irritation potential and the efficacy of Alpine Rose stem cells incorporated into li-posomes and olive oil squalene as ingredients of moisturizing creams, with respect to the novel emulsifier used for creams’ stabilization.
With the employment of noninvasive skin biophysical measurements, skin hydration (EC), transepi-dermal water loss (TEWL), erythema index (EI) and viscoelas-ticity were measured on 76 healthy volunteers. In the first phase, skin irritation after a 24-hour occlusion and the long-term efficacy of creams (a 21-day study) on healthy skin were evaluated. Phase II of the study focused on the cream efficacy assessment after a 6-day treatment of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin.
After a 24-hour occlusion, there were no significant changes in the EI for any tested sample. In the second phase of the study, the EI was not significantly altered for the cream containing squalene, while the application of all active samples resulted in a significant reduction of TEWL. In both phases of the study an EC increase was recorded, espe-cially for the squalene-containing cream.
Due to the lack of skin irritation and skin barrier impairment along with the marked hydration effect, it could be said that the in-vestigated actives incorporated into alkyl polyglucoside emulsi-fier-stabilized creams may be safely applied as ingredients for "tailor-made" cosmetic moisturizers intended for normal and dry skin care, whereas olive oil squalene could be used for the treatment of irritated or sensitive skin as well. [Projekat Ministarstva nauke Republike Srbije, br. TR34031]
背景/目的：由于活性成分和所选载体均可实现皮肤保湿，植物干细胞、角鲨烯和天然烷基多糖苷乳化剂可能是当代化妆品的潜在成分。本研究的目的是对包载于脂质体中的高山玫瑰干细胞和橄榄油角鲨烯作为保湿霜成分时，就用于乳膏稳定化的新型乳化剂而言，进行体内皮肤刺激性潜力和功效评估。
对76名健康志愿者采用非侵入性皮肤生物物理测量方法，测量皮肤水合作用（EC）、经表皮水分流失（TEWL）、红斑指数（EI）和粘弹性。在第一阶段，评估24小时封包后皮肤刺激性以及乳膏对健康皮肤的长期功效（一项为期21天的研究）。研究的第二阶段重点评估对月桂醇硫酸酯钠刺激皮肤进行6天治疗后乳膏的功效。
24小时封包后，任何测试样品的EI均无显著变化。在研究的第二阶段，含角鲨烯的乳膏EI无显著改变，而所有活性样品的应用均导致TEWL显著降低。在研究的两个阶段均记录到EC增加，尤其是含角鲨烯的乳膏。
由于不存在皮肤刺激和皮肤屏障损伤，且具有显著的保湿效果，可以说，纳入烷基多糖苷乳化剂稳定化乳膏中的被研究活性成分可安全用作“定制”化妆品保湿剂的成分，用于正常和干性皮肤护理，而橄榄油角鲨烯也可用于治疗受刺激或敏感皮肤。[塞尔维亚共和国科学部项目，编号TR34031]
