School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo, Avenida do Café, s/n - Monte Alegre, Ribeirão Preto, SP, 14040-903, Brazil.
AAPS PharmSciTech. 2018 May;19(4):1512-1519. doi: 10.1208/s12249-018-0960-0. Epub 2018 Feb 20.
The interaction between cosmetic emulsions and the skin's surface is an important factor to consider in the development of topical formulations. Two important ingredients in cosmetic formulations are waxes and polymers. The physical and mechanical properties of formulations directly impact the interface skin-formulation. To evaluate this interaction, it is important to study the rheology, texture, and sensory properties. In this context, the aim of the study was to evaluate the influence of waxes and polymers on the rheological behavior, texture profile, and sensorial properties of topical formulations and the correlation between these parameters. The best combination of a wax and a polymer was determined by full factorial design of experiments and applied to develop eight formulations that were tested in relation to rheological, mechanical, and sensorial properties. The polymer helps with the spreadability of the formulation, and the wax had a strong influence on the parameters related to the structure of emulsions. A correlation between these parameters was observed. This way, it was possible to compare theoretical and practical data, except between the flow index and the work of shear. Finally, it was possible to predict sensorial aspects from rheological and texture parameters, making the formulation process easier and more integrated with all stages of the development of new topical formulations. Thus, the present study introduces a new proposal in the development of cosmetics.
化妆品乳液与皮肤表面的相互作用是开发局部制剂时需要考虑的一个重要因素。化妆品配方中的两个重要成分是蜡和聚合物。制剂的物理和机械性能直接影响界面皮肤制剂。为了评估这种相互作用，研究流变学、质地和感官特性非常重要。在这种情况下，研究的目的是评估蜡和聚合物对局部制剂的流变行为、质地特性和感官特性的影响，以及这些参数之间的相关性。通过全因子实验设计确定了蜡和聚合物的最佳组合，并将其应用于开发八种制剂，以测试它们在流变学、机械和感官性能方面的表现。聚合物有助于制剂的铺展性，而蜡对与乳液结构相关的参数有很强的影响。观察到这些参数之间存在相关性。通过这种方式，可以比较理论和实际数据，除了流动指数和剪切功之间。最后，有可能从流变学和质地参数预测感官方面，使配方过程更容易，并与新局部制剂开发的所有阶段更集成。因此，本研究在化妆品开发中提出了一个新的方案。
