Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Apr;36(2):159-66. doi: 10.1111/ics.12109.
Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) have been widely studied for cosmetic and dermatological applications due to their favourable properties that include the formation of an occlusive film on the skin surface that reduces the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increase in water content in the skin which improves the appearance on healthy human skin and reduces symptoms of some skin disorders like eczema.
The main objective of this study was the development of semisolid formulations based NLC with argan oil or jojoba oil as liquid lipids, by addition of Carbopol®934 or Carbopol®980 as gelling agents, followed by comparison between instrumental analysis and sensorial evaluation and in vivo efficacy evaluation.
Nanostructured lipid carriers dispersions were produced by the ultrasound technique, and to obtain a semisolid formulation, gelling agents were dispersed in the aqueous dispersion. Particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential were determined. Instrumental characterization was performed by rheological and textural analysis; the sensorial evaluation was also performed. Finally, skin hydration and TEWL were studied by capacitance and evaporimetry evaluation, respectively.
Particles showed a nanometric size in all the analysed formulations. All the gels present pseudoplastic behaviour. There is a correspondence between the properties firmness and adhesiveness as determined by textural analysis and the sensory evaluation. The formulations that showed a greater increase in skin hydration also presented appropriate technological and sensorial attributes for skin application.
Nanolipidgel formulations with the addition of humectants are promising systems for cosmetic application with good sensory and instrumental attributes and moisturizing efficacy.
由于具有形成皮肤表面封闭膜的优势，纳米结构脂质载体（NLC）已广泛应用于化妆品和皮肤病学领域，这种优势可以减少经表皮水分流失（TEWL），增加皮肤水分含量，从而改善健康皮肤的外观，并减轻湿疹等某些皮肤病的症状。
本研究的主要目的是开发基于 NLC 的半固体制剂，其载体为角鲨烷油或霍霍巴油，添加卡波姆®934 或卡波姆®980 作为凝胶剂，然后对仪器分析、感官评价和体内功效评价进行比较。
采用超声技术制备纳米结构脂质载体分散体，为了获得半固体制剂，将凝胶剂分散在水相中。测定了粒径、多分散指数和 Zeta 电位。通过流变学和质构分析进行仪器特性分析；还进行了感官评价。最后，通过电容法和蒸发法分别评估皮肤水合作用和 TEWL。
所有分析的制剂中的颗粒均呈纳米尺寸。所有凝胶均表现出假塑性行为。质构分析和感官评价确定的稠度和粘性之间存在对应关系。具有更高皮肤水合作用增加的制剂也具有适当的技术和感官属性，适用于皮肤应用。
添加保湿剂的纳米脂质凝胶制剂是具有良好感官和仪器特性以及保湿功效的化妆品应用有前途的系统。
