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在口红模型中作为新型色素来源的酰化和非酰化花青素的颜色特征及稳定性:合成色素的可行替代品。

Color profiles and stability of acylated and nonacylated anthocyanins as novel pigment sources in a lipstick model: A viable alternative to synthetic colorants.

作者信息

Westfall Alexandra, Giusti Mónica

机构信息

Department of Food Science and Technology, The Ohio State University, Columbus, OH.

出版信息

J Cosmet Sci. 2017 May/Jun;68(3):233-244.

PMID:29616623
Abstract

Cosmetics, such as lipstick, can affect an individual's perception of attractiveness and morale. Consumer concern with the safety of synthetic colorants has made the need for alternative natural color sources increasingly urgent. Our goal was to evaluate the feasibility of anthocyanin (ACN) extracts as colorants in lipstick formulations. Lipstick formulations were colored with ACN-rich materials. Accelerated environmental testing typical of the cosmetic industry were used: incubation at 20°, 37°, and 45°C for 12 weeks and temperature abuse cycles between 20°/37°C or -20°/20°C. Color (CIELab) and total monomeric ACN (pH-differential) changes were monitored to determine shelf stability of the product. All formulations exhibited acceptable color for lipsticks. Shelf stability was determined to exceed 2 year based on the accelerated testing conditions. Formulations containing cyanidin as their main ACN were the most stable (elderberry, purple corn, and purple sweet potato). ACNs could be used as suitable alternatives to synthetic colorants in lipid-based topical formulations.

摘要

口红等化妆品会影响个人对吸引力和士气的认知。消费者对合成色素安全性的担忧使得对替代天然色素来源的需求日益迫切。我们的目标是评估花青素(ACN)提取物作为口红配方中色素的可行性。口红配方用富含ACN的材料着色。采用了化妆品行业典型的加速环境测试:在20°C、37°C和45°C下孵育12周,以及在20°/37°C或-20°/20°C之间进行温度滥用循环。监测颜色(CIELab)和总单体ACN(pH差值)的变化,以确定产品的货架稳定性。所有配方的口红颜色均可接受。根据加速测试条件,确定货架稳定性超过2年。以矢车菊素作为主要ACN的配方最稳定(接骨木果、紫玉米和紫甘薯)。ACN可作为脂质基局部制剂中合成色素的合适替代品。

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