Westfall Alexandra, Sigurdson Gregory T, Rodriguez-Saona Luis E, Giusti M Mónica
Department of Food Science and Technology, The Ohio State University, 2015 Fyffe Ct., Columbus, OH 43210-1007, USA.
Antioxidants (Basel). 2020 Jun 3;9(6):486. doi: 10.3390/antiox9060486.
Anthocyanins are natural colorants with antioxidant properties, shown to inhibit photoaging reactions and reduce symptoms of some skin diseases. However, little is known about their penetration through the stratum corneum, a prerequisite for bioactivity. The aim was to investigate anthocyanin penetration from lipophilic cosmetic formulations through the skin using a porcine ear model and human volunteers. ATR-FTIR/PLS regression and HPLC-PDA-MS were used to analyze anthocyanin permeation through the stratum corneum. Penetration of all anthocyanins was evident and correlated with molecular weight and hydrophilicity. Lower-molecular-weight (MW) anthocyanins from elderberry (449-581 Da) were more permeable within the skin in both ex vivo and in vivo models (K = 2.3-2.4 × 10 cm h) than the larger anthocyanins (933-1019 Da) from red radish (K = 2.0-2.1 × 10 cm h). Elderberry and red radish anthocyanins were found at all levels of the stratum corneum and at depths for activity as bioactive ingredients for skin health.
花青素是具有抗氧化特性的天然色素，已证明其可抑制光老化反应并减轻某些皮肤病的症状。然而，关于它们透过角质层的情况却知之甚少，而角质层穿透是生物活性的一个先决条件。本研究旨在使用猪耳模型和人类志愿者，研究亲脂性化妆品配方中的花青素透过皮肤的情况。采用衰减全反射傅里叶变换红外光谱/偏最小二乘回归（ATR-FTIR/PLS）和高效液相色谱-光电二极管阵列-质谱联用（HPLC-PDA-MS）技术分析花青素透过角质层的情况。所有花青素均有明显的穿透现象，且与分子量和亲水性相关。在体外和体内模型中，接骨木果中分子量较低（449-581 Da）的花青素在皮肤内的渗透性（K = 2.3-2.4×10 cm/h）均高于红萝卜中分子量较大（933-1019 Da）的花青素（K = 2.0-2.1×10 cm/h）。在角质层的各个层面以及作为皮肤健康生物活性成分发挥作用的深度均发现了接骨木果和红萝卜中的花青素。
