Melgosa M, Richard N, Fernández-Maloigne C, Xiao K, de Clermont-Gallerande H, Jost-Boissard S, Okajima K
Department of Optics, University of Granada, 18071, Granada, Spain.
XLIM Laboratory, UMR 7252, CNRS, University of Poitiers, Poitiers, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2018 Apr 10. doi: 10.1111/ics.12457.
To provide an approach to facial contrast, analysing CIELAB colour differences (ΔEab,10∗) and its components in women's faces from two different ethnic groups, illuminated by modern white light-emitting diodes (LEDs) or traditional illuminants recommended by the International Commission on Illumination (CIE).
We performed spectrophotometric measurements of spectral reflectance factors on forehead and cheek of 87 young healthy women (50 Caucasians and 37 Orientals), plus five commercial red lipsticks. We considered a set of 10 white LED illuminants, representative of technologies currently available on the market, plus eight main illuminants currently recommended by the CIE, representative of conventional incandescent, daylight and fluorescent light sources. Under each of these 18 illuminants, we analysed the magnitude and components of ΔEab,10∗ between Caucasian and Oriental women (considering cheek and forehead), as well as for cheek-forehead and cheek-lipsticks in Caucasian and Oriental women. Colour-inconstancy indices for cheek, forehead and lipsticks were computed, assuming D65 and A as reference illuminants.
ΔEab,10∗ between forehead and cheek were quantitatively and qualitatively different in Orientals and Caucasians, but discrepancies with respect to average values for 18 illuminants were small (1.5% and 5.0% for Orientals and Caucasians, respectively). ΔEab,10∗ between Caucasians and Orientals were also quantitatively and qualitatively different both for forehead and cheek, and discrepancies with respect to average values were again small (1.0% and 3.9% for forehead and cheek, respectively). ΔEab,10∗ between lipsticks and cheek were at least two times higher than those between forehead and cheek. Regarding ΔEab,10∗ between lipsticks and cheeks, discrepancies with respect to average values were in the range 1.5-12.3%, although higher values of up to 54.2% were found for a white RGB LED. This white RGB LED provided the highest average colour-inconstancy indices: 17.1 and 11.5 CIELAB units, under reference illuminants D65 and A, respectively.
Colour contrasts in women's faces under CIE standard illuminants for outdoor and indoor conditions may be strongly altered using specific white LEDs. More research needs to be performed on the impact of spectral power distribution of light sources with high colour rendering indices on visual colour appearance of cosmetic products.
提供一种面部对比度分析方法,分析来自两个不同种族女性面部的CIELAB色差(ΔEab,10∗)及其组成部分,这些面部在现代白色发光二极管(LED)或国际照明委员会(CIE)推荐的传统光源照明下。
我们对87名年轻健康女性(50名白种人和37名东方人)的额头和脸颊以及五支商业红色口红进行了光谱反射率因子的分光光度测量。我们考虑了一组代表市场上现有技术的10种白色LED光源,以及代表传统白炽灯、日光和荧光光源的CIE目前推荐的8种主要光源。在这18种光源中的每一种下,我们分析了白种人和东方女性之间(考虑脸颊和额头)以及白种人和东方女性的脸颊-额头和脸颊-口红之间的ΔEab,10∗的大小和组成部分。假设D65和A为参考光源,计算了脸颊、额头和口红的颜色恒常性指数。
东方人和白种人额头与脸颊之间的ΔEab,10∗在数量和质量上存在差异,但相对于18种光源的平均值差异较小(东方人和白种人分别为1.5%和5.0%)。白种人和东方人额头和脸颊之间的ΔEab,10∗在数量和质量上也存在差异,相对于平均值的差异同样较小(额头和脸颊分别为1.0%和3.9%)。口红与脸颊之间的ΔEab,10∗至少是额头与脸颊之间的两倍。关于口红与脸颊之间的ΔEab,10∗,相对于平均值的差异在1.5 - 12.3%范围内,尽管对于一种白色RGB LED发现高达54.2%的更高值。这种白色RGB LED提供了最高的平均颜色恒常性指数:在参考光源D65和A下分别为17.1和11.5 CIELAB单位。
在CIE标准光源下,户外和室内条件下女性面部的颜色对比度可能会因特定的白色LED而发生强烈改变。关于高显色指数光源的光谱功率分布对化妆品视觉颜色外观的影响,还需要进行更多研究。