Weiss Caryn L, Fairchild Mark R, Stanton Brian, Nshime Bertil S, Parkanzky Paul D
Amway Research and Development, 7575 Fulton St E., Ada, MI 49355.
J AOAC Int. 2019 Mar 1;102(2):633-637. doi: 10.5740/jaoacint.18-0053. Epub 2018 Oct 5.
Dexpanthenol is a widely used humectant in hair care products, especially anti-hairfall products. The hair care industry is highly regulated in East Asia and treats products containing the combination of dexpanthenol, zinc pyrithione, and nicotinamide (vitamin B₃) as quasi-drugs. Because dexpanthenol lacks a UV chromophore, existing methodologies for analysis in finished products include pretreatments and/or HPLC-UV analysis at low wavelengths at which poor signal-to-noise is observed. These time-consuming methods lack the robustness needed for routine use in quality laboratories. This has resulted in the need for a simple, fast, accurate, and robust UHPLC-MS method to quantify dexpanthenol in hair care products that could be easily adapted in quality laboratories. The MS detection was performed in positive ion mode with data acquired in single-ion recording for dexpanthenol (206.14 ), dexpanthenol-d (212.29 ), and Leucine Enkephalin acetate salt (556.28 ). Quantitation was performed using peak area ratio of dexpanthenol to the internal standard. The resulting linear curve R² was 0.9998 with sample precision RSDs <2.5%. The accuracy recoveries were within 2% and the robustness results were within 3% of the nominal conditions. The resulting method for the quantitation of dexpanthenol is fast, accurate, and robust in the range of 170.24-1024.5 ng/mL in shampoo and conditioner, which is easily adaptable in quality laboratories. This study determined optimal sample preparation and UHPLC-MS conditions to quantify dexpanthenol in finished hair care products.
