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咖啡银皮乙醇提取物及其乙酸乙酯馏分的药妆活性。

Cosmeceutical activities of ethanol extract and its ethyl acetate fraction from coffee silverskin.

作者信息

Xuan Song Hua, Lee Keon Soo, Jeong Hyo Jin, Park Young Min, Ha Ji Hoon, Park Soo Nam

机构信息

Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D center, Cosmetic Industry Coupled Collaboration Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology, 232, Gongneung-ro, Nowon-gu, Seoul, 01811 Korea.

出版信息

Biomater Res. 2019 Jan 14;23:2. doi: 10.1186/s40824-018-0151-9. eCollection 2019.

Abstract

BACKGROUND

Coffee silverskin is a thin film that covers the raw coffee bean. In general, coffee silverskin, which detaches during the coffee roasting process, is disposed as firelighters or dispatched to landfills and can cause serious environmental pollution. The aim of this study was to investigate the feasibility of using coffee silverskin as a functional material in cosmetics by evaluating its bioactive ingredients, antioxidative activity, cytoprotective effect, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1)-inhibiting effect, and anti-melanogenesis effect.

RESULTS

To this end, a 50% ethanol (EtOH) extract and its ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction were prepared from coffee silverskin; caffeine was found to be the major compound in the extract. Both the 50% EtOH extract and its EtOAc fraction exhibited antioxidant activities. However, the EtOAc fraction showed a greater radical-scavenging activity and reducing power than that shown by the 50% EtOH extract. Furthermore, the EtOAc fraction increased cell viability in a UVB-irradiated human keratinocyte injury model and significantly suppressed UVB-induced MMP-1 expression and α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated melanin production in HaCaT keratinocytes and B16F1 melanocytes, respectively. Interestingly, caffeine, the major component of the EtOAc fraction, did not show an inhibitory effect. Thus, the antioxidant capacity of the coffee silverskin extract may be attributable to some compounds that exhibit a high antioxidant capacity even at low concentrations or the total antioxidant capacity of various constituent phenolic compounds.

CONCLUSION

Our findings indicate that coffee silverskin has the potential for application as a natural functional material in multifunctional cosmetics.

摘要

背景

咖啡银皮是覆盖在生咖啡豆表面的一层薄膜。一般来说,在咖啡烘焙过程中脱落的咖啡银皮会被用作引火物或运往垃圾填埋场,这可能会造成严重的环境污染。本研究的目的是通过评估咖啡银皮的生物活性成分、抗氧化活性、细胞保护作用、基质金属蛋白酶-1(MMP-1)抑制作用和抗黑色素生成作用,来研究其作为化妆品功能材料的可行性。

结果

为此,制备了咖啡银皮的50%乙醇(EtOH)提取物及其乙酸乙酯(EtOAc)馏分;发现提取物中的主要化合物是咖啡因。50%乙醇提取物及其乙酸乙酯馏分均表现出抗氧化活性。然而,乙酸乙酯馏分的自由基清除活性和还原能力比50%乙醇提取物更强。此外,乙酸乙酯馏分在紫外线B(UVB)照射的人角质形成细胞损伤模型中提高了细胞活力,并分别显著抑制了UVB诱导的HaCaT角质形成细胞中MMP-1的表达以及α-黑素细胞刺激素(α-MSH)刺激的B16F1黑素细胞中黑色素的生成。有趣的是,乙酸乙酯馏分的主要成分咖啡因并未显示出抑制作用。因此,咖啡银皮提取物的抗氧化能力可能归因于某些即使在低浓度下也具有高抗氧化能力的化合物,或者各种酚类化合物成分的总抗氧化能力。

结论

我们的研究结果表明,咖啡银皮有潜力作为天然功能材料应用于多功能化妆品中。

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