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与“白发”相关的人类毛发形态学变化

Morphological Changes of Human Hair Related to "Graying".

作者信息

Bechthold Lorena, Wiesche Erik Schulze Zur, Wortmann Franz J

机构信息

Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Hamburg 22763, Germany (L.B., E.S.W.), School of Materials, The University of Manchester, Manchester M13 9PL, United Kingdom (L.B., F.J.W.).

出版信息

J Cosmet Sci. 2018 Sep/Oct;69(5):335-346.

PMID:30767882
Abstract

The appearance of hair is a crucial factor of human well-being. Besides hair color and shine, the dynamic movement characteristics have a great impact on a youthful look, which is desirable at all ages. However, the hair follicle is subject to biochemical changes which tend to become obvious in the mid-30s by the appearance of the first nonpigmented "gray" hairs. Especially, these fibers seem to be unruly, hereby influencing the hair collective. In this investigation, the complex dynamic movement of swinging hair is modeled by an method. Using pigmented and nonpigmented hair strands, the results are related to the morphological and mechanical changes associated with the process of ageing. Furthermore, the method is extended toward a real life setting by monitoring the movement of women's ponytails with different fractions of gray hair, while walking on a treadmill. The dynamic movement of hair is a complex phenomenon, which can be affected by several factors: the internal structure, thickness and waviness of single hair fibers, the fiber-fiber interactions, and the shape and volume of hair collectives. As these properties change with age, they are expected to lead to differences in the dynamic hair movement. Using the method, the dynamic hair movement of pigmented and nonpigmented hair strands is quantified. A harmonic bending oscillation of a hair collective is induced by rotational excitation at the upper strand end, which allows the analysis of the driven as well as the free oscillation mode. The maximum swing height of the hair collective, characterized by the parameter "relative amplitude," is measured during the driven oscillation and correlates with the deflection of the hair collective. Compared with pigmented hair, the relative amplitude is significantly lower for nonpigmented hair strands. This indicates a stronger damping, i.e., energy loss, for the nonpigmented hair strands, which relates to higher waviness and larger hair collective volume. In addition, the larger diameter of the nonpigmented hair fibers leads to a higher contribution of these fibers to the collective's bending stiffness. Furthermore, the natural frequency during the free oscillation stage of the measurement is significantly lower for partly nonpigmented hair strands. The damping of hair collectives expressed by the logarithmic decrement is, in turn, significantly higher for nonpigmented hair strands. This is attributed to increased fiber-fiber interactions and higher frictional forces within the strand and to increased air resistance. With the laboratory test ( method), the oscillation of different hair qualities using hair strands with defined weights and lengths can be analyzed, providing the practical and theoretical concepts to determine the hair movement in a realistic setting. This enables the measurement of the ponytail movement for women walking on a treadmill. Like the method, the method allows the analysis of the driven and the free oscillation mode. It is shown that the results of both methods demonstrate a high degree of correspondence. Ponytails with ≥5% nonpigmented hair fibers have a significantly lower relative amplitude and a significantly higher damping performance in comparison with ponytails with no or less than 5% nonpigmented hair fibers. This highlights the importance of even small fractions of "gray" hair for the dynamic movement and, as such, the appearance and perception of hair collectives.

摘要

头发的外观是人类健康的一个关键因素。除了头发颜色和光泽外,动态运动特征对年轻外观有很大影响,而这是所有年龄段都期望拥有的。然而,毛囊会发生生化变化,在30岁中期,第一批无色素的“白发”出现时,这些变化往往会变得明显。特别是,这些纤维似乎难以梳理,从而影响整个头发群体。在这项研究中,摆动头发的复杂动态运动通过一种方法进行建模。使用有色素和无色素的发丝,研究结果与衰老过程中相关的形态和机械变化有关。此外,通过在跑步机上行走时监测不同比例白发的女性马尾辫的运动,该方法被扩展到实际生活场景中。头发的动态运动是一个复杂的现象,它可能受到几个因素的影响:单根头发纤维的内部结构、粗细和卷曲度、纤维与纤维之间的相互作用以及头发群体的形状和体积。由于这些特性会随着年龄变化,预计它们会导致头发动态运动的差异。使用该方法,对有色素和无色素发丝的动态头发运动进行了量化。通过在上端发丝末端进行旋转激励,诱发头发群体的谐波弯曲振荡,这使得能够分析受迫振荡模式和自由振荡模式。在受迫振荡过程中,以参数“相对振幅”为特征测量头发群体的最大摆动高度,它与头发群体的挠度相关。与有色素头发相比,无色素发丝的相对振幅明显更低。这表明无色素发丝的阻尼更强,即能量损失更大,这与更高的卷曲度和更大的头发群体体积有关。此外,无色素头发纤维的较大直径导致这些纤维对群体弯曲刚度的贡献更高。此外,在测量的自由振荡阶段,部分无色素发丝的固有频率明显更低。用对数减量表示的头发群体的阻尼,反过来,无色素发丝的明显更高。这归因于纤维与纤维之间相互作用的增加以及发丝内部摩擦力的增加,还有空气阻力的增加。通过实验室测试(该方法),可以分析使用具有确定重量和长度的发丝的不同发质的振荡,为在实际场景中确定头发运动提供了实践和理论概念。这使得能够测量在跑步机上行走的女性的马尾辫运动。与该方法一样,该方法允许分析受迫振荡模式和自由振荡模式。结果表明,两种方法的结果显示出高度的一致性。与无或少于5%无色素头发纤维的马尾辫相比,含有≥5%无色素头发纤维的马尾辫具有明显更低的相对振幅和明显更高的阻尼性能。这突出了即使是少量“白发”对动态运动的重要性,因此也突出了对头发群体外观和感知的重要性。

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