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未损伤头发的热损伤评估。

Heat-damaged evaluation of virgin hair.

机构信息

Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil.

Institute of Chemistry, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil.

出版信息

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019 Dec;18(6):1885-1892. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12892. Epub 2019 Mar 12.

Abstract

BACKGROUND

Hair-straightening treatments may involve the use of thermal devices, which potentially cause damages in the cuticle and cortex of the hair fibers. Particularly, the heat causes denaturation of the α-keratin and the degradation of the components of the hair cortex.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of heating on the cuticle and cortex of the Caucasian and Asian virgin hair by using heat iron flat.

METHODS

The effects of the heating in the tresses of Caucasian and Asian virgin hair were analyzed by thermogravimetry/differential scanning calorimetry-Fourier transform infrared/mass spectrometry (TG/DSC-MS/FTIR), protein loss analysis (PLA), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR-ATR), and scanning electron microscope (SEM).

RESULTS

TG/DSC-MS/FTIR results were: formation of the H O between 25-170°C and CO , SCO and H S from 200°C. Denaturation temperature = 237°C. Protein loss: Asian hair>Caucasian hair. Data presented statistically significant alterations, α = 5, P ≤ 0.05, n = 3. FTIR-ATR: changes in the secondary structural conformation of the protein of hair cuticle. SEM: heat caused damage to hair cuticle.

CONCLUSIONS

The results evidenced the importance of the control of temperature in the procedures involving heat. The damage caused by thermal devices showed be dependent of the ethnicity analyzed (Caucasian and Asian hair).

摘要

背景

拉直处理可能涉及使用热设备,这可能会对头发纤维的表皮和皮质造成损伤。特别是,热量会导致角蛋白的变性和头发皮质成分的降解。

目的

本研究旨在通过使用热铁平板评估加热对高加索人和亚洲人处女发的表皮和皮质的影响。

方法

通过热重/差示扫描量热法-傅里叶变换红外/质谱联用(TG/DSC-MS/FTIR)、蛋白损失分析(PLA)、傅里叶变换红外(FTIR-ATR)和扫描电子显微镜(SEM)分析高加索和亚洲人处女发在加热时的影响。

结果

TG/DSC-MS/FTIR 结果为:在 25-170°C 之间形成 H O,在 200°C 之间形成 CO、SCO 和 H S。变性温度=237°C。蛋白损失:亚洲头发>高加索头发。数据呈现出统计学上的显著变化,α=5,P≤0.05,n=3。FTIR-ATR:头发表皮蛋白质二级结构构象发生变化。SEM:热会对头发表皮造成损伤。

结论

结果表明在涉及热的程序中控制温度的重要性。热设备造成的损伤可能取决于所分析的种族(高加索人和亚洲人头发)。

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