Tinoco A, Gonçalves J, Silva C, Loureiro A, Gomes A C, Cavaco-Paulo A, Ribeiro A
CEB-Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, Campus of Gualtar, 4710-057, Braga, Portugal.
Centre of Molecular and Environmental Biology (CBMA), Department of Biology, University of Minho, Campus of Gualtar, 4710-057, Braga, Portugal.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2018 Aug;40(4):408-419. doi: 10.1111/ics.12483. Epub 2018 Aug 28.
Human hair is an element with unquestionable relevance in society both for women and men. Therefore, it is of great importance to develop new cosmetic products for hair care capable to restore and improve hair's characteristics. Here, we explore the potential of keratin-based particles in the protection and recovery of hair mechanical properties and thermal stability.
Keratin-based particles were obtained by high pressure homogenization (HPH) using keratin and silk fibroin. The particles were characterized regarding size, superficial charge and polydispersity index. Their safety to cells was assessed using human skin keratinocytes. Virgin and overbleached Asian hair were treated with eight keratin-based formulations. The effect of particles on hair's mechanical properties was evaluated in terms of stiffness and tensile strength. The impact of treatments in hair thermal performance was studied using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).
Keratin-based particles were capable to recover and/or improve the mechanical properties of virgin and overbleached hair. Virgin hair treated with K SF P particles presented an improvement in the mechanical properties of around 40%. An increase in keratin α-helix denaturation enthalpy and in surface smoothness for both types of hair was also verified after treatment. These particles demonstrated stability over time and proved to be safe when tested in human keratinocytes.
The keratin-based particles here presented have the potential to be incorporated in the development of new and effective hair care cosmetic formulations.
人类头发对男性和女性而言都是社会中具有无可争议相关性的一个元素。因此，开发能够恢复和改善头发特性的新型头发护理化妆品非常重要。在此，我们探索基于角蛋白的颗粒在保护和恢复头发机械性能及热稳定性方面的潜力。
使用角蛋白和丝素蛋白通过高压均质法（HPH）制备基于角蛋白的颗粒。对颗粒的大小、表面电荷和多分散指数进行了表征。使用人皮肤角质形成细胞评估其对细胞的安全性。用八种基于角蛋白的配方处理原生和过度漂白的亚洲头发。从硬度和拉伸强度方面评估颗粒对头发机械性能的影响。使用差示扫描量热法（DSC）研究处理对头发热性能的影响。
基于角蛋白的颗粒能够恢复和/或改善原生和过度漂白头发的机械性能。用K SF P颗粒处理的原生头发的机械性能提高了约40%。处理后还证实了两种类型头发的角蛋白α-螺旋变性焓和表面光滑度均有所增加。这些颗粒随时间显示出稳定性，并且在人角质形成细胞中测试时证明是安全的。
本文介绍的基于角蛋白的颗粒有潜力被纳入新型有效头发护理化妆品配方的开发中。
