Lee Yoonhee, Kim Youn-Duk, Pi Long-Quan, Lee Sung Yul, Hong Hannah, Lee Won-Soo
Department of Dermatology and Institute of Hair and Cosmetic Medicine, Yonsei University Wonju College of Medicine, Wonju, South Korea.
Int J Dermatol. 2014 Sep;53(9):1103-10. doi: 10.1111/ijd.12247. Epub 2013 Nov 21.
Diverse causes of extrinsic damage to the hair shaft have been documented and can be roughly divided into physical and chemical causes. Chemical causes of hair damage include bleaching, hair dyeing, and perming.
The goal of this study was to investigate differences in patterns of serial damage in Asian, White European (WE), and African hair after chemical stress imposed by straightening and coloring treatments.
Hairs were divided into control and treatment groups (straightening, coloring, and a combination of straightening and coloring). At 24 hours after the final treatment, patterns of hair damage were evaluated using transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and lipid TEM. Grades of hair cuticle and cortex damage were evaluated by three dermatologists.
In the TEM examination, the cuticle of Asian hair proved to be resistant to damage caused by straightening treatments, whereas the WE hair cuticle and cortex were relatively susceptible to stress imposed by coloring treatments. In the combination treatment of straightening and coloring, African hair emerged as the most resistant to stress. In the lipid TEM examination, no notable differences in cell membrane complex damage were observed among the three groups of hairs.
The present study suggests that WE hair is relatively susceptible and African hair is more resistant to chemical stresses, such as those imposed by straightening and coloring.
已记录了多种导致毛干外部损伤的原因，大致可分为物理原因和化学原因。头发损伤的化学原因包括漂白、染发和烫发。
本研究的目的是调查在直发和染发处理施加化学应激后，亚洲人、欧洲白人（WE）和非洲人的头发连续损伤模式的差异。
将头发分为对照组和处理组（直发、染发以及直发和染发组合）。在最后一次处理后24小时，使用透射电子显微镜（TEM）和脂质TEM评估头发损伤模式。由三位皮肤科医生评估头发角质层和皮质的损伤等级。
在TEM检查中，亚洲人的头发角质层被证明对直发处理造成的损伤具有抗性，而WE人的头发角质层和皮质相对易受染发处理施加的应激影响。在直发和染发的联合处理中，非洲人的头发表现出对压力最具抗性。在脂质TEM检查中，三组头发之间未观察到细胞膜复合物损伤的显著差异。
本研究表明，WE人的头发相对易受影响，而非洲人的头发对化学应激（如直发和染发施加的应激）更具抗性。
