Lee Myeongryeol, Park Se-Jun, Jeong Choonbok, Jang Sue Im, Han Jiyeon, Kim Beom Joon, Kim Eunjoo
Skin Care Research Division, Amorepacific Research & Development Center, Yongin, Korea.
Department of Medicine, Graduate School, Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Korea.
Skin Res Technol. 2020 Jan;26(1):76-80. doi: 10.1111/srt.12766. Epub 2019 Aug 18.
Transparent-looking skin is an objective of facial makeup products. However, this effect of makeup products has not been investigated to Korean women's faces.
We investigated the perception of blue light on women's faces using the blue pearl pigment. We compared colors and/or spectra of naked skin, standard makeup powder foundation (standard foundation), and test makeup powder foundations containing the blue pearl pigment 10% (w/w) (pearl foundation) or (ultramarine blue) blue pigment 0.2% (w/w) (pigment foundation) on real women's faces (n = 6) using spectrophotometry and facial image analysis. A self-administered questionnaire showed facial images (n = 3) with applied makeup powder foundations on computer monitor (n = 35); evaluated items were blooming, transparency, smoothness, gloss, and vitality.
In vivo, the pearl foundation showed significantly lower b* values (degree of yellowness) than did naked skin, and pigment foundation and the samples also showed significantly higher reflection of blue light (410-490 nm) than did naked skin, standard foundation, or pigment foundation. In image analysis, the image with the pearl foundation showed significantly lower quasi-b* value. On the self-administered questionnaire, the results showed that the pearl foundation had a significantly higher grade than did naked skin, standard foundation, or pigment foundation at all evaluation items: blooming, transparency, smoothness, gloss, and vitality.
Blue pearl pigment creates the perception of blue light effect, including transparency and gloss in Korean women.
打造看似透明的肌肤是面部彩妆产品的一个目标。然而，尚未针对韩国女性面部研究彩妆产品的这种效果。
我们使用蓝色珍珠颜料研究了女性面部对蓝光的感知。我们通过分光光度法和面部图像分析，比较了6名真实女性面部的裸肤、标准彩妆粉底（标准粉底）以及含有10%（w/w）蓝色珍珠颜料（珍珠粉底）或0.2%（w/w）（群青）蓝色颜料（颜料粉底）的测试彩妆粉底的颜色和/或光谱。一份自填式问卷在电脑显示器上展示了涂抹了彩妆粉底的面部图像（n = 3）（n = 35）；评估项目包括光彩度、透明度、光滑度、光泽度和活力。
在活体实验中，珍珠粉底的b值（黄色程度）显著低于裸肤，并且颜料粉底以及测试样本在410 - 490nm波段的蓝光反射也显著高于裸肤、标准粉底或颜料粉底。在图像分析中，涂抹珍珠粉底的图像的准b值显著更低。在自填式问卷中，结果显示在所有评估项目（光彩度、透明度、光滑度、光泽度和活力）上，珍珠粉底的评分显著高于裸肤、标准粉底或颜料粉底。
蓝色珍珠颜料能营造蓝光效果的感知，包括为韩国女性带来透明度和光泽度。
