Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California, San Diego, La Jolla, CA, 92037, USA.
Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, US Army Engineer Research and Development Center, 1261 Duck Rd, Duck, NC, 27949, USA.
Sci Data. 2019 Aug 29;6(1):161. doi: 10.1038/s41597-019-0167-6.
Sustained, quantitative observations of nearshore waves and sand levels are essential for testing beach evolution models, but comprehensive datasets are relatively rare. We document beach profiles and concurrent waves monitored at three southern California beaches during 2001-2016. The beaches include offshore reefs, lagoon mouths, hard substrates, and cobble and sandy (medium-grained) sediments. The data span two energetic El Niño winters and four beach nourishments. Quarterly surveys of 165 total cross-shore transects (all sites) at 100 m alongshore spacing were made from the backbeach to 8 m depth. Monthly surveys of the subaerial beach were obtained at alongshore-oriented transects. The resulting dataset consists of (1) raw sand elevation data, (2) gridded elevations, (3) interpolated elevation maps with error estimates, (4) beach widths, subaerial and total sand volumes, (5) locations of hard substrate and beach nourishments, (6) water levels from a NOAA tide gauge (7) wave conditions from a buoy-driven regional wave model, and (8) time periods and reaches with alongshore uniform bathymetry, suitable for testing 1-dimensional beach profile change models.
对近岸波浪和沙层进行持续、定量的观测对于检验海滩演变模型至关重要，但综合性数据集却相对较少。我们记录了 2001 年至 2016 年期间加利福尼亚南部三个海滩的海滩剖面和同期监测到的波浪数据。这些海滩包括近海礁石、泻湖口、硬底质以及鹅卵石和沙质（中粒级）沉积物。这些数据涵盖了两次强烈的厄尔尼诺冬季和四次海滩补沙。在 100 米的沿岸间距上，每季度对 165 个总横越剖面（所有地点）进行了 100 米的调查，从后滨到 8 米深度。每月在沿岸向的横剖面上对陆上海滩进行调查。该数据集包括：（1）原始沙层高程数据；（2）网格化高程数据；（3）带有误差估计的插值高程图；（4）海滩宽度、陆上和总沙体积；（5）硬底质和海滩补沙的位置；（6）来自美国国家海洋和大气管理局潮汐计的水位数据；（7）来自浮标驱动的区域波浪模型的波浪条件数据；（8）具有沿岸均匀水深的时段和范围，适合用于检验一维海滩剖面变化模型。
