Water, Wetlands and Coasts Science, Environment and Heritage, Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water, NSW Government, Lidcombe, Australia.
School of Environmental and Life Sciences, University of Newcastle, Callaghan, Australia.
Sci Data. 2024 Feb 12;11(1):190. doi: 10.1038/s41597-023-02865-x.
Wind wave observations in shallow coastal waters are essential for calibrating, validating, and improving numerical wave models to predict sediment transport, shoreline change, and coastal hazards such as beach erosion and oceanic inundation. Although ocean buoys and satellites provide near-global coverage of deep-water wave conditions, shallow-water wave observations remain sparse and often inaccessible. Nearshore wave conditions may vary considerably alongshore due to coastline orientation and shape, bathymetry and islands. We present a growing dataset of in-situ wave buoy observations from shallow waters (<35 m) in southeast Australia that comprises over 7,000 days of measurements at 20 locations. The moored buoys measured wave conditions continuously for several months to multiple years, capturing ambient and storm conditions in diverse settings, including coastal hazard risk sites. The dataset includes tabulated time series of spectral and time-domain parameters describing wave height, period and direction at half-hourly temporal resolution. Buoy displacement and wave spectra data are also available for advanced applications. Summary plots and tables describing wave conditions measured at each location are provided.
在浅海海域进行风浪观测对于校准、验证和改进数值波浪模型以预测泥沙输运、海岸线变化以及海滩侵蚀和海洋淹没等沿海灾害至关重要。尽管海洋浮标和卫星提供了对深水波浪条件的近乎全球覆盖，但浅水区的波浪观测仍然稀疏且往往难以获取。由于海岸线的方位和形状、水深和岛屿等因素，近岸波浪条件可能会沿岸边发生很大变化。我们提供了一个不断增长的澳大利亚东南部浅水区（<35 米）现场波浪浮标观测数据集，其中包括 20 个地点超过 7000 天的测量数据。这些系泊浮标连续数月至数年连续测量波浪条件，捕捉到了各种环境和风暴条件，包括沿海灾害风险地点的条件。该数据集包括以半小时时间分辨率描述波高、周期和方向的谱和时域参数的表格时间序列。浮标位移和波浪谱数据也可用于高级应用。还提供了描述每个位置测量的波浪条件的摘要图和表格。
