Centre for Textile Conservation, University of Glasgow, Glasgow, G12 8QH, UK.
Department of Chemistry and Industrial Chemistry, University of Pisa, Via Moruzzi 13, 56124, Pisa, Italy.
Anal Chim Acta. 2019 Nov 20;1083:58-87. doi: 10.1016/j.aca.2019.07.009. Epub 2019 Jul 9.
Historical and archaeological textiles are among the most crucial and vulnerable records of our social and cultural history. Analysis of organic colorants found in these materials is unquestionably one of the most powerful tools to understand historical developments, cultural exchanges, and progress in science and technology. Natural anthraquinones represent the most commonly used natural colorants for textile dyeing until the late 19th century. The identification of anthraquinones in cultural heritage objects is a challenging task due to the small size of historical samples, diversity of potential dye sources, variable extraction procedures and dyeing methods, complex chemical constitution, structurally analogous chromophores, and possible presence of degradation products and contaminants. Developments in dye analysis of historical interest have originated and expanded along with the general advances in analytical science. In the last few decades, a close cooperation between science and cultural heritage disciplines contributed enormously to this field. The topic of historical dyes and their analysis in textiles, artworks, archaeological objects and cultural heritage materials has been reviewed several times in the last fifteen years. However, no review has been published to-date exclusively on the analysis of anthraquinone colorants in historical and archaeological textiles. Overall, liquid chromatography (LC)-based techniques have been the most widely used method for anthraquinone dye analysis. Owing to increasing demand of minimally invasive/non-invasive techniques, recent developments of novel techniques have resulted in the availability of many alternative/complementary methods to LC-based analysis. This review begins with a short overview of sources, chemistry and importance of natural anthraquinone dyes found in historical textiles before turning to a detailed discussion on developments involving established and emerging analytical techniques of anthraquinone dye analysis for textile cultural heritage materials. To illustrate the state-of-the-art, representative examples of analytical techniques highlighting their advantages, limitations and applicability are also presented.
历史和考古纺织品是记录我们社会和文化历史的最重要和最脆弱的记录之一。对这些材料中发现的有机着色剂进行分析无疑是了解历史发展、文化交流以及科学技术进步的最有力工具之一。天然蒽醌类化合物是 19 世纪后期之前用于纺织品染色的最常用的天然着色剂之一。由于历史样本的体积小、潜在染料来源的多样性、不同的提取程序和染色方法、复杂的化学结构、结构类似的生色团以及可能存在降解产物和污染物，因此在文化遗产物品中鉴定蒽醌类化合物是一项具有挑战性的任务。对历史感兴趣的染料分析的发展是随着分析科学的普遍进步而产生和扩展的。在过去的几十年中，科学和文化遗产学科之间的密切合作对这一领域做出了巨大贡献。历史染料及其在纺织品、艺术品、考古文物和文化遗产材料中的分析主题在过去十五年中已经多次被综述。然而，迄今为止，还没有专门针对历史和考古纺织品中蒽醌类着色剂分析的综述发表。总体而言，基于液相色谱（LC）的技术是蒽醌染料分析最广泛使用的方法。由于对微创/非侵入性技术的需求不断增加，新的技术的发展导致了许多替代/互补方法的出现，这些方法可用于 LC 分析。本综述首先简要概述了历史纺织品中发现的天然蒽醌染料的来源、化学性质和重要性，然后详细讨论了针对纺织文化遗产材料的已建立和新兴分析技术中蒽醌染料分析的发展。为了说明现状，还介绍了具有代表性的分析技术实例，突出了它们的优点、局限性和适用性。
