Korolkova T N, Shepilova I A, Kharitonova E E
I.I.Mechnikov North-Western State Medical University, 45 pr. Prosvescheniya, St. Petersburg 194291, Russian Federation, e-mail:
Adv Gerontol. 2019;32(5):829-836.
Retinoids continue to be the main mean for the treatment of photoaging as they are able to align not only the various wrinkles but also to reduce skin pigmentation. Retinol serves as a reserve turned into an active substance by the cell itself in the required amount that triggers the expression of genes responsible for the development of epithelial tissue. The aim of the research therefore was to study the dynamics of the functional parameters of the skin after peeling with retinol in different age groups. 58 patients who had been treating with chemical peeling with retinol were under observation. All the patients were divided into two groups by age: the 1st group - 29 women from 30 to 45 years (38,51±4,34 years), the 2nd group - 29 women from 46 to 60 years (52,97±5,34 years). We studied the moisture content, acid-base balance, pigmentation, erythema degree, skin salinity and elasticity before treatment, 14 and 28 days after peeling. It was found that peeling with retinol bleached the skin better in the patients of the older age group, although their skin was more sensitive to the components of peeling. In the study of elasticity in the older age group, peeling with retinol reduced the extensibility, significantly increased the tone, viscosity and improved the total elasticity of the skin. Chemical peeling with retinol had the best effect on the skin in patients 46-60 years.
维甲酸仍然是治疗光老化的主要手段，因为它们不仅能够改善各种皱纹，还能减少皮肤色素沉着。视黄醇作为一种储备物质，由细胞自身转化为所需量的活性物质，触发负责上皮组织发育的基因表达。因此，该研究的目的是研究不同年龄组用视黄醇进行皮肤剥脱后皮肤功能参数的变化动态。对58例接受视黄醇化学剥脱治疗的患者进行了观察。所有患者按年龄分为两组：第一组为29名年龄在30至45岁之间的女性（平均年龄38.51±4.34岁），第二组为29名年龄在46至60岁之间的女性（平均年龄52.97±5.34岁）。我们研究了治疗前、剥脱后14天和28天的皮肤水分含量、酸碱平衡、色素沉着、红斑程度、皮肤盐分和弹性。结果发现，尽管老年组患者的皮肤对剥脱成分更敏感，但用视黄醇进行皮肤剥脱对该组患者的皮肤美白效果更好。在对老年组皮肤弹性的研究中，用视黄醇进行皮肤剥脱降低了皮肤的延展性，显著提高了皮肤的张力、粘度并改善了整体弹性。视黄醇化学剥脱对46 - 60岁患者的皮肤效果最佳。
