Department of Life Sciences, State University of Bahia, Silveira Martins Street, 2555, Cabula, Zip code 41150-000, Salvador, Bahia, Brazil; Department of Medicine, Faculty of Pharmacy, Federal University of Bahia, Barão do Jeremoabo Street, 147, Ondina, Zip code 40170-115 Salvador, Bahia, Brazil.
Department of Life Sciences, State University of Bahia, Silveira Martins Street, 2555, Cabula, Zip code 41150-000, Salvador, Bahia, Brazil.
J Photochem Photobiol B. 2020 Apr;205:111837. doi: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2020.111837. Epub 2020 Feb 21.
The use of plant bioactives in cosmetic formulations are increasing due to the search for new sustainable sources of raw materials, greater concern for safety and possible social impacts caused by the incorrect use of natural resources. Plant extracts have been the subject of several studies in several industrial areas. However, the potential use of tropical fruits extracts in cosmetic formulations remains largely unexplored. Considering the impact on public health and the possibility of using wastes from fruit processing, the aim of this work is to identify, evaluate and develop a sunscreen based on rambutan peel extracts (Nephelium lappaceum L) as a natural additive for enhancing the final product sun protection factor (SPF). The phytochemical screening revealed the presence of tannins and flavonoids and the absence of coumarins. Even presenting a low sunscreen factor when used alone (SPF value 0.4), rambutan extract at 1.00% FTP concentration improved the photoprotective result (11.2) of the formulation containing 7.5% of ethylhexyl metoxycinnamate (EHMC) by 134%. The addition of rambutan extract in the formulation shows the potential to reduce the use of synthetic photoprotectors by about 64% of the total synthetic organic filters used to achieve the SPF value of 26.3. In addition, the sunscreen formulation supplemented with rambutan extract containing 1.00% RTP shows the potential to minimize the risk of synthetic agent toxicity and a 45% reduction in the cost of sunscreen production.
由于寻找新的可持续原料、对天然资源使用不当可能带来的安全和社会影响的更大关注,植物生物活性物质在化妆品配方中的应用越来越多。植物提取物已成为多个工业领域的多项研究的主题。然而,热带水果提取物在化妆品配方中的潜在用途在很大程度上仍未得到探索。考虑到对公众健康的影响以及利用水果加工废物的可能性,本工作的目的是识别、评估和开发一种基于红毛丹果皮提取物(Nephelium lappaceum L)的防晒霜,作为增强最终产品防晒因子(SPF)的天然添加剂。植物化学筛选显示存在单宁和类黄酮,不存在香豆素。尽管单独使用时防晒因子较低(SPF 值为 0.4),但红毛丹提取物在 1.00%FTP 浓度下可将含有 7.5%乙基己基甲氧基肉桂酸酯(EHMC)的配方的光保护效果(11.2)提高 134%。在配方中添加红毛丹提取物显示出降低合成光保护剂使用量的潜力,可将达到 26.3 SPF 值所需的总合成有机滤光剂用量减少约 64%。此外,添加含有 1.00%RTP 的红毛丹提取物的防晒霜配方具有降低合成剂毒性风险的潜力,并可将防晒霜生产成本降低 45%。