Universidade de Sao Paulo Faculdade de Ciencias Farmaceuticas de Ribeirao Preto, Avenida do Café, Sem Número, 14040-903, Ribeirao Preto, Brazil.
Ecole de Biologie Industrielle (EBI), 49 avenue des Genottes, 95895, Cergy-Pontoise, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2020 Apr;42(2):156-166. doi: 10.1111/ics.12598.
Sensory properties have a great importance for cosmetics and personal care products. If literature permits to consult articles comparing different formulations on their sensory attributes, there are only a few articles concerning ingredients.
The overall objective of this study was to carry out an original study combining the sensory evaluation of different natures of ingredients, in order to initiate a sensory data set that could help researchers to identify differentiating sensory characteristics, as well as initiating a comparison between sensory data and texturometer instrumental measurements.
Oils, glycolic extracts, butter and starch were evaluated according to descriptive sensory analysis methodology with the help of panel of 25 experts. In order to compare responses obtained from the panel to instrumental measurements, texture analyzes were performed in compression traction model.
Significant differences were detected in ten of the eleven evaluated sensory attributes, indicating that ingredients have distinct sensory profiles. The mainly discriminative attributes for the analyzed ingredients were: gloss, opacity, fluidity, freshness, whitening and oily residue. The oils are mostly related to oily residue and slipperiness while extracts are mostly related to gloss, fluidity and freshness attributes. Both Tapioca Starch and Shea Butter were related to non-fluidity, opacity, and Tapioca Starch was related to freshness too. This study was completed by a texturometer analysis which lead to show the opposite correlation between the sensory attribute fluidity and the consistent index.
感官特性对化妆品和个人护理产品非常重要。如果文献允许查阅比较不同配方感官属性的文章，那么关于成分的文章却很少。
本研究的总体目标是进行一项结合不同性质成分感官评估的原始研究，以便启动一个感官数据集，帮助研究人员识别具有区别性的感官特征，并启动感官数据与质构仪仪器测量之间的比较。
使用 25 名专家的描述性感官分析方法对油、甘醇提取物、黄油和淀粉进行评估。为了比较小组的反应与仪器测量结果，在压缩牵引模型中进行了质地分析。
在评估的十一个感官属性中有十个检测到显著差异，表明成分具有不同的感官特征。对分析成分具有主要区分性的属性是：光泽度、不透明度、流动性、新鲜感、增白和油性残留。油主要与油性残留和滑溜性有关，而提取物主要与光泽度、流动性和新鲜感属性有关。木薯淀粉和乳木果油都与非流动性、不透明度有关，而木薯淀粉也与新鲜感有关。本研究通过质构仪分析完成，结果表明感官属性流动性与一致性指数呈相反的相关性。
