Normandie Univ, France; UNILEHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, EA 3221, 25 rue Philippe Lebon BP 1123, 76063 Le Havre cedex, France.
Int J Pharm. 2020 Jul 30;585:119453. doi: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2020.119453. Epub 2020 May 25.
This study focuses on the fate of excipients contained in topical emulsions once applied on the skin. The aim was thus to develop a methodology to characterize the residue left on the skin shortly after emulsion application. To this end, both the role and the impact of the different excipients on the formation and properties of the residue left on the skin surface once a product is applied were investigated. To that purpose, an O/W emulsion composed of an ester as oily phase, an emulsifier (alkylpolyglucoside-based vehicles), a polymer and a humectant (hydrophilic excipient) was first developed. Then, systems with fewer ingredients were prepared to understand their respective role in the residual film. This residual film was studied in vivo by means of biophysical instrumental methods, all being performed on the participants' forearm. Results highlighted the major role of the ester giving a bright and hydrophobic residue. While the surfactant structuration as the presence of glycerin and polymer provided a specific water distribution inside the residue on the skin surface. Finally, this work evidenced the ingredients organization in the residue depending on the systems composition, with a particular stratification on skin surface which could be considered in the formulation strategy for efficient active delivery and skin protection.
本研究关注的是局部乳液中所含赋形剂在涂于皮肤后的命运。因此，本研究旨在开发一种方法来描述乳液涂敷后短时间内在皮肤表面残留的物质。为此，研究了不同赋形剂在产品涂敷后在皮肤表面形成和残留物质特性方面的作用和影响。为此，首先开发了一种由酯类作为油相、乳化剂（基于烷基多糖苷的制剂）、聚合物和保湿剂（亲水性赋形剂）组成的 O/W 乳液。然后，制备了成分较少的系统，以了解它们在残留膜中的各自作用。通过生物物理仪器方法在体内研究了该残留膜，所有方法均在参与者的前臂上进行。结果突出了酯赋予明亮和疏水性残留物的主要作用。而表面活性剂的结构化，如甘油和聚合物的存在，在皮肤表面的残留物内提供了特定的水分分布。最后，这项工作证明了残留物中成分的组织取决于系统的组成，在皮肤表面存在特定的分层，这可以在有效的活性物质传递和皮肤保护的配方策略中加以考虑。
