用于粉末化妆品的中孔碳酸镁。

OBJECTIVE

In the present study, we describe the features and functional properties of a new powder cosmetic ingredient, an amorphous mesoporous magnesium carbonate (MMC, also named Upsalite ) with regard to physical characteristics as well as functional attributes.

METHODS

Physical and functional characterization of MMC, as compared to other common powder cosmetic ingredients (silica, mica, kaolin, talc and starch), was assessed using nitrogen gas adsorption, powder X-ray diffraction, particle size distribution by laser diffraction, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and oil and moisture uptake tests. The powder ingredients were also applied on human skin and analysed for short- and long-term mattifying effect, and a new method was developed to measure flashback effect. MMC was tested for skin irritation using an in vitro cell model as well as in vivo, through the Human Repeated Insult Patch Test on 50 human volunteers.

RESULTS

Mesoporous magnesium carbonate has a high surface area and pore volume. It has an excellent absorption capacity and can take up both oil and water simultaneously. It provides instant and long-lasting mattifying effect when applied on human skin without drying or irritating skin and exhibits no measured flashback effect.

CONCLUSION

Mesoporous magnesium carbonate has good sensory and visual characteristics as well as excellent absorbing and mattifying properties, suggesting that it has great potential to replace other powder ingredients currently used as fillers and absorbers in powder cosmetics.

目的

在本研究中，我们描述了一种新型粉末化妆品成分——无定形中孔碳酸镁（MMC，也称为 Upsalite）的特性和功能特性，涉及物理特性和功能属性。

方法

使用氮气吸附、粉末 X 射线衍射、激光衍射粒度分布、扫描电子显微镜（SEM）和油和水分吸收测试，对 MMC 与其他常见粉末化妆品成分（硅石、云母、高岭土、滑石和淀粉）的物理和功能特性进行了评估。还将这些粉末成分应用于人体皮肤，并分析其短期和长期的哑光效果，同时开发了一种新的方法来测量闪光效果。使用体外细胞模型以及通过 50 名人类志愿者的人体重复刺激斑贴试验，对 MMC 进行了皮肤刺激性测试。