Central R & D Laboratory, Pias Corporation, Kobe, Japan.
Faculty of Life and Environmental Science, Prefectural University of Hiroshima, Shobara, Japan.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jul;20(7):2332-2340. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13833. Epub 2020 Dec 13.
Cationic amphiphilic chitosan derivatives can form polymeric micelles, which are useful cosmetic materials, but they form polyion complexes with anionic polymers, which can cause formulation difficulties.
This study aimed to evaluate the usefulness of partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan, an amphoteric-amphiphilic chitosan derivative, as a new material for cosmetics in the absence of a surfactant comprising an anionic polymer.
An anionic polymer and 1,2-decanediol (an antimicrobial agent)-containing partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan nanoemulsified lotion and glabridin (an antimelanogenic agent)-containing partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan polymeric micelle were prepared using a pressure homogenization method. The release of interleukin-1α, cell viability, and melanogenesis inhibition was evaluated on a human skin model. Antimicrobial activity was evaluated using agar dilution method.
A mixture of partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan and carboxyvinyl polymer did not form a polyion complex, but it formed a hydrophilic gel. The anionic polymer-containing partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan nanoemulsified formulation was stable, with no decrease in cell viability and horny layer exfoliation, which are typically observed with Tween 60. Compared with the formulation with methyl paraben (0.2%), the formulation to which 1,2-decanediol (0.05%) was added improved the antibacterial activity against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes; however, no interleukin-1α upregulation was observed. The glabridin-containing partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan polymeric micelles enhanced melanogenesis inhibition and percutaneous glabridin delivery to the epidermis compared with conventional emulsified micelles.
These results suggest that partially myristoylated carboxymethyl chitosan-forming polymeric micelles, in combination with 1,2-decanediol and glabridin, may be useful for surfactant-free cosmetic emulsions.
阳离子两亲性壳聚糖衍生物可以形成聚合物胶束，这是有用的化妆品材料，但它们与阴离子聚合物形成聚离子复合物，这可能导致配方困难。
本研究旨在评估部分豆蔻酰化羧甲基壳聚糖作为新型化妆品材料的有用性，因为它不含包含阴离子聚合物的表面活性剂。
使用压力匀浆法制备了含有阴离子聚合物和 1,2-癸二醇（一种抗菌剂）的部分豆蔻酰化羧甲基壳聚糖纳米乳液和含有部分豆蔻酰化羧甲基壳聚糖的高分子胶束，其中含有光甘草定（一种黑素生成抑制剂）。在人皮肤模型上评估了白细胞介素-1α 的释放、细胞活力和黑素生成抑制。采用琼脂稀释法评估抗菌活性。
部分豆蔻酰化羧甲基壳聚糖和羧乙烯基聚合物的混合物没有形成聚离子复合物，但形成了亲水性凝胶。含有阴离子聚合物的部分豆蔻酰化羧甲基壳聚糖纳米乳液制剂稳定，没有细胞活力下降和角质层剥落，这是通常与吐温 60 一起观察到的现象。与含有对羟基苯甲酸甲酯（0.2%）的制剂相比，添加 1,2-癸二醇（0.05%）的制剂提高了对耐甲氧西林金黄色葡萄球菌和痤疮丙酸杆菌的抗菌活性；然而，没有观察到白细胞介素-1α 的上调。与常规乳化胶束相比，含有光甘草定的部分豆蔻酰化羧甲基壳聚糖高分子胶束增强了黑素生成抑制和光甘草定向表皮的经皮递送。
这些结果表明，部分豆蔻酰化羧甲基壳聚糖形成的高分子胶束与 1,2-癸二醇和光甘草定结合使用，可能对无表面活性剂的化妆品乳液有用。
