Hypera Pharma - Mantecorp Skincare, Hynova, Alphaville, São Paulo-SP, Brazil.
Kosmoscience Group, Rua Sandoval Meirelles, Campinas-SP, Brazil.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jul;20(7):2179-2189. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13815. Epub 2020 Nov 12.
Mechanisms involved in hair metabolism are diverse, and the availability of ingredients that normalize dysfunctions or mitigate the effects of extrinsic stress suffered daily is greatly desired by consumers to improve the aesthetic appearance of hair.
In this work, we carried out a preclinical exploratory approach to evaluate the effects of a complex of nanoencapsulated active ingredients (AcPi), as well as a cosmetic formulation containing AcPi (ShPi and HtPi) in mechanisms involving hair loss and follicular aging.
Human hair follicle dermal papilla cells and human scalp culture were treated with AcPi, ShPi, or HtPi and stimulated with UV radiation or testosterone for further measurement of mitochondrial biogenesis, reactive oxygen species (ROS), β-catenin, dyhidrotestosterone (DHT), collagen XVIIα1 (COL17A1), and cutaneous permeation.
Our results demonstrated that AcPi prevents oxidative stress and balances mitochondial activity disturbed by exposure to UV radiation. AcPi also promoted an enrichment of WNT/β-catenin signaling pathway, stimulating hair growth, and lengthening the anagen phase of hair cycle. ShPi and HtPi were able to prevent hair aging, minimizing the excessive degradation of COL17A1 in hair follicle exposed to UV radiation, in addition to controlling androgenic metabolism by reducing DHT production.
The integral effects of AcPi have not been completely elucidated; however, these results, associated with clinical evidences, allow us to infer that this ingredient prevents follicular aging, miniaturization, and consequently hair loss by mechanisms involving energetic homeostasis maintenance, antioxidant, and anti-androgenic actions.
毛发代谢涉及的机制多种多样,消费者非常希望获得能够使机能失调正常化或减轻日常外在应激影响的成分,以改善毛发的美学外观。
在这项工作中,我们进行了一项临床前探索性方法,以评估纳米封装活性成分复合物(AcPi)以及含有 AcPi 的化妆品配方(ShPi 和 HtPi)在涉及脱发和毛囊老化的机制中的作用。
用人毛囊真皮乳头细胞和人头皮培养物处理 AcPi、ShPi 或 HtPi,并分别用紫外线或睾丸酮刺激,进一步测量线粒体生物发生、活性氧(ROS)、β-连环蛋白、二氢睾酮(DHT)、XVII 型胶原α1(COL17A1)和皮肤渗透。
我们的结果表明,AcPi 可预防氧化应激并平衡暴露于紫外线辐射引起的线粒体活性紊乱。AcPi 还促进了 WNT/β-连环蛋白信号通路的富集,刺激头发生长,并延长头发生长周期的生长期。ShPi 和 HtPi 能够防止毛发老化,最大限度地减少暴露于紫外线辐射的毛囊中 COL17A1 的过度降解,同时通过减少 DHT 的产生来控制雄激素代谢。
AcPi 的整体作用尚未完全阐明;然而,这些结果与临床证据相结合,使我们能够推断该成分通过维持能量平衡、抗氧化和抗雄激素作用来预防毛囊衰老、缩小和随后的脱发。