Institute of Blue Biotechnology and Development (IBYDA), Ecology Department, Campus Universitario de Teatinos s/n, University of Malaga, 29071 Malaga, Spain.
Botany Department, Campus of Trindade, Florianópolis, Federal University of Santa Catarina, Santa Catarina 88040-970, Brazil.
Mar Drugs. 2020 Dec 21;18(12):659. doi: 10.3390/md18120659.
In recent years, research on natural products has gained considerable attention, particularly in the cosmetic industry, which is looking for new bio-active and biodegradable molecules. In this study, cosmetic properties of cyanobacteria and red macroalgae were analyzed. The extractions were conducted in different solvents (water, ethanol and two combinations of water:ethanol). The main molecules with antioxidant and photoprotective capacity were mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), scytonemin and phenolic compounds. The highest contents of scytonemin (only present in cyanobacteria) were observed in sp. (BEA 1603B) and sp. (BEA 1328B). The highest concentrations of MAAs were found in the red macroalgae , and and in the cyanobacterium sp. sp. was the unique species that presented an MAA with maximum absorption in the UV-B band, being identified as mycosporine-glutaminol for the first time in this species. The highest content of polyphenols was observed in sp. and . Water was the best extraction solvent for MAAs and phenols, whereas scytonemin was better extracted in a less polar solvent such as ethanol:HO (4:1). Cyanobacterium extracts presented higher antioxidant activity than those of red macroalgae. Positive correlations of antioxidant activity with different molecules, especially polyphenols, biliproteins and MAAs, were observed. Hydroethanolic extracts of some species incorporated in creams showed an increase in the photoprotection capacity in comparison with the base cream. Extracts of these organisms could be used as natural photoprotectors improving the diversity of sunscreens. The combination of different extracts enriched in scytonemin and MAAs could be useful to design broad-band natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.
近年来,天然产物的研究受到了相当多的关注,尤其是在寻找新的生物活性和可生物降解分子的化妆品行业。本研究分析了蓝藻和红宏观藻类的化妆品特性。提取物是在不同溶剂(水、乙醇和水:乙醇的两种组合)中进行的。具有抗氧化和光保护能力的主要分子是菌氨酸类似物(MAAs)、Scytonemin 和酚类化合物。Scytonemin(仅存在于蓝藻中)含量最高的是 sp.(BEA 1603B)和 sp.(BEA 1328B)。MAAs 浓度最高的是红宏观藻类 、 和蓝藻 sp. sp. 是唯一一种在 UV-B 带中具有最大吸收的 MAA 的物种,首次在该物种中被鉴定为 Mycosporine-Glutaminol。多酚含量最高的是 sp. 和 sp. 水是 MAAs 和酚类物质的最佳提取溶剂,而 Scytonemin 则在极性较小的溶剂(如乙醇:HO(4:1))中提取效果更好。蓝藻提取物的抗氧化活性高于红宏观藻类。观察到抗氧化活性与不同分子(尤其是多酚、胆红素蛋白和 MAAs)之间存在正相关关系。与基础霜相比,一些加入乳膏中的物种的水醇提取物显示出光保护能力的增加。这些生物体的提取物可作为天然防晒剂,提高防晒霜的多样性。富含 Scytonemin 和 MAAs 的不同提取物的组合可用于设计宽波段天然紫外线屏蔽化妆品产品。