Department of Emergency Medicine, Faculty of Health Sciences, Medical University of Gdansk, Debinki 1, 80-211 Gdansk, Poland.
Polish Mountaineering Association, Polish National K2 Winter Expedition 2018 Support Team, Mokotowska 24, 00-561 Warszawa, Poland.
Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2021 Mar 16;18(6):3040. doi: 10.3390/ijerph18063040.
(1) Background: Today's elite alpinists target K2 and Everest in midwinter. This study aimed to asses and compare weather at the summits of both peaks in the climbing season (Everest, May; K2, July) and the midwinter season (January and February). (2) Methods: We assessed environmental conditions using the ERA5 dataset (1979-2019). Analyses examined barometric pressure (BP), temperature (Temp), wind speed (Wind), perceived altitude (Alt), maximal oxygen uptake (VOmax), vertical climbing speed (Speed), wind chill equivalent temperature (WCT), and facial frostbite time (FFT). (3) Results: Most climbing-season parameters were found to be more severe ( < 0.05) on Everest than on K2: BP (333 ± 1 vs. 347 ± 1 hPa), Alt (8925 ± 20 vs. 8640 ± 20 m), VOmax (16.2 ± 0.1 vs. 17.8 ± 0.1 ml·kg·min), Speed (190 ± 2 vs. 223 ± 2 m·h), Temp (-26 ± 1 vs. -21 ± 1°C), WCT (-45 ± 2 vs. -37 ± 2 °C), and FFT (6 ± 1 vs. 11 ± 2 min). Wind was found to be similar (16 ± 3 vs. 15 ± 3 m·s). Most midwinter parameters were found to be worse ( < 0.05) on Everest vs. K2: BP (324 ± 2 vs. 326 ± 2 hPa), Alt (9134 ± 40 vs. 9095 ± 48 m), VOmax (15.1 ± 0.2 vs. 15.3 ± 0.3 ml·kg·min), Speed (165 ± 5 vs. 170 ± 6 m·h), Wind (41 ± 6 vs. 27 ± 4 m·s), and FFT (<1 min vs. 1 min). Everest's Temp of -36 ± 2 °C and WCT -66 ± 3 °C were found to be less extreme than K2's Temp of -45 ± 1 °C and WCT -76 ± 2 °C. (4) Conclusions: Everest presents more extreme conditions in the climbing and midwinter seasons than K2. K2's 8° higher latitude makes its midwinter BP similar and Temp lower than Everest's. K2's midwinter conditions are more severe than Everest's in the climbing season.
(1) 背景：如今，登山精英们的目标是在隆冬攀登乔戈里峰（K2）和珠穆朗玛峰。本研究旨在评估和比较这两座山峰在登山季（珠穆朗玛峰，5 月；乔戈里峰，7 月）和隆冬季（1 月和 2 月）的天气情况。(2) 方法：我们使用 ERA5 数据集（1979-2019 年）评估环境条件。分析考察了气压（BP）、温度（Temp）、风速（Wind）、感知海拔（Alt）、最大摄氧量（VOmax）、垂直攀爬速度（Speed）、风寒等效温度（WCT）和面部冻伤时间（FFT）。(3) 结果：与乔戈里峰相比，大多数登山季的参数在珠穆朗玛峰上更为恶劣（<0.05）：BP（333±1 对 347±1 百帕）、Alt（8925±20 对 8640±20 米）、VOmax（16.2±0.1 对 17.8±0.1 毫升·千克·分钟）、Speed（190±2 对 223±2 米·小时）、Temp（-26±1 对-21±1°C）、WCT（-45±2 对-37±2°C）和 FFT（6±1 对 11±2 分钟）。风速相似（16±3 对 15±3 米·秒）。与乔戈里峰相比，大多数隆冬参数在珠穆朗玛峰上更差（<0.05）：BP（324±2 对 326±2 百帕）、Alt（9134±40 对 9095±48 米）、VOmax（15.1±0.2 对 15.3±0.3 毫升·千克·分钟）、Speed（165±5 对 170±6 米·小时）、Wind（41±6 对 27±4 米·秒）和 FFT（<1 分钟对 1 分钟）。珠穆朗玛峰的温度为-36±2°C，风寒等效温度为-66±3°C，比乔戈里峰的温度-45±1°C 和风寒等效温度-76±2°C 要温和一些。(4) 结论：珠穆朗玛峰在登山季和隆冬季比乔戈里峰面临更极端的条件。乔戈里峰 8°的高纬度使其隆冬的气压与珠穆朗玛峰相似，温度比珠穆朗玛峰低。乔戈里峰在登山季的条件比珠穆朗玛峰在隆冬季更为恶劣。
