Pan Nannan, Xia Yue, Hou Wenyi, Zhu Gouxing, Zhang Jie, Lai Wei, Zheng Yue
Department of Dermato-Venereology, The Third Affiliated Hospital of Sun Yat-sen University, Guangzhou, China.
Department of Dermato-Venereology, People's Hospital of Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, Nanning, China.
Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2021;34(5):253-261. doi: 10.1159/000515470. Epub 2021 Jul 1.
BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVE: In recent years, herbal extracts are becoming increasingly popular ingredients added in cosmetics; however, the assessment of their potential adverse effects on the skin remains unclear. As Coptis, Phellodendron amurense, curcumin, and shikonin are herbs currently used in cosmetic ingredients, the aim of this study was to assess their skin photoallergy (PA) potential and the concentrations at which they could safely be used.
In the patch test, Coptis, P. amurense, curcumin, and shikonin with 5, 10, 25, and 50% concentration were applied on 33 healthy Chinese subjects using the T.R.U.E. TEST® patch test system for 48 h. Photopatch testing was performed on 206 Chinese subjects with predisposed photosensitivity history using the Scandinavian photopatch series, and subjects were irradiated by 50% UVA minimum erythema dose. Photopatch testing of herbal extracts was then performed on subjects diagnosed with PA.
Thirty-three subjects (14 with type III skin and 19 with type IV skin) completed contact patch testing of herbal extracts. Coptis induced a contact allergy (CA) reaction on 2 subjects at 25% concentration and on 2 subjects at 10% concentration. P. amurense induced a CA reaction on 1 subject at 10% concentration and on 1 subject at 5% concentration. Shikonin induced a stimulating reaction on 1 subject at 10% concentration. Curcumin induced a stimulating reaction on 1 subject at 10% concentration. Of the 206 Chinese subjects predisposed for photosensitivity, 10.19% had PA, 16.5% showed CA, and 1.45% had both PA + CA. PA-induced substances were promethazine hydrochloride (15%, n = 31), chlorpromazine hydrochloride (10.84%, n = 19), perfume mix (5.82%, n = 12), atranorin (3.39%, n = 7), 6-methyl coumarine (3.39%, n = 7), balsam Peru (1.94%, n = 4), fentichlor (1.94%, n = 4), 3,3',4',5-tetrachloro salicylanilide (0.97%, n = 2), hexachlorophene (0.97%, n = 2), chlorhexidine digluconate (0.97%, n = 2), and 4-aminobenzoic acid 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (0.97%, n = 2). Coptis at 25, 10, and 5% concentration and P. amurense, shikonin, and curcumin each at 10 and 5% concentration induced negative photopatch test results in all 10 photosensitive subjects.
We have shown that Coptis, shikonin, or curcumin at 5% concentration in cosmetics could be applied safely without inducing contact allergic and photosensitive reactions on the skin. These findings advance the understanding of herbal extract use in cosmetic ingredients as related to the fields of dermatopharmacology and dermatotoxicology.
背景/目的：近年来，草药提取物作为化妆品添加成分越来越受欢迎；然而，其对皮肤潜在不良反应的评估仍不明确。由于黄连、黄柏、姜黄素和紫草素是目前用于化妆品成分的草药，本研究旨在评估它们的皮肤光过敏（PA）潜力以及可安全使用的浓度。
在斑贴试验中，使用TRUE TEST®斑贴试验系统，将浓度为5%、10%、25%和50%的黄连、黄柏、姜黄素和紫草素应用于33名健康中国受试者，持续48小时。对206名有光敏病史的中国受试者使用斯堪的纳维亚光变应原系列进行光斑贴试验，受试者接受50%最小红斑量的紫外线A照射。然后对诊断为PA的受试者进行草药提取物光斑贴试验。
33名受试者（14名III型皮肤和19名IV型皮肤）完成了草药提取物的接触斑贴试验。黄连在25%浓度时使2名受试者产生接触过敏（CA）反应，在10%浓度时使2名受试者产生CA反应。黄柏在10%浓度时使1名受试者产生CA反应，在5%浓度时使1名受试者产生CA反应。紫草素在10%浓度时使1名受试者产生刺激反应。姜黄素在10%浓度时使1名受试者产生刺激反应。在206名有光敏倾向的中国受试者中，10.19%有PA，16.5%有CA，1.45%既有PA又有CA。引起PA的物质有盐酸异丙嗪（15%，n = 31）、盐酸氯丙嗪（10.84%，n = 19）、香料混合物（5.82%，n = 12）、地衣酸（3.39%，n = 7）、6 - 甲基香豆素（3.39%，n = 7）、秘鲁香脂（1.94%，n = 4）、芬替氯（1.94%，n = 4）、3,3',4',5 - 四氯水杨酰苯胺（0.97%，n = 2）、六氯酚（0.97%，n = 2）、葡萄糖酸洗必泰（0.97%，n = 2）和4 - 氨基苯甲酸2 - 羟基 - 4 - 甲氧基二苯甲酮（0.97%，n = 2）。浓度为25%、10%和5%的黄连以及浓度为10%和5%的黄柏、紫草素和姜黄素在所有10名光敏受试者中均产生阴性光斑贴试验结果。
我们已表明，化妆品中5%浓度的黄连、紫草素或姜黄素可安全使用，不会引起皮肤接触过敏和光敏反应。这些发现推进了对草药提取物在化妆品成分中使用与皮肤药理学和皮肤毒理学领域相关的理解。
