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防晒指标的过去、现在和未来。

Past, Present, and Future of Sun Protection Metrics.

机构信息

Department of Dermatology, Universitätsspital Zürich, Zurich, Switzerland.

Department of Dermatology, Universitätsspital Basel, Basel, Switzerland.

出版信息

Curr Probl Dermatol. 2021;55:170-187. doi: 10.1159/000517667. Epub 2021 Oct 25.

Abstract

Since the beginning of the development of sunscreen products, efforts have been made to measure and quantify the protection performance of such products. Early on an in vivo method was established that allowed statements on the sun protection performance in humans. Later, by establishing defined basic and experimental conditions, the method became internationally standardized delivering the well-known sun protection factor (SPF). The method was widely used and is nowadays regarded as a gold-standard method. Further standardized methods were added shortly thereafter. However, shortcomings such as the confined radiation spectra used by the methods, the invasiveness, the complexity in their application, as well as their time- and cost-intensity promoted the development of alternative methods. The shortcomings were recently followed by another, namely, the large interlaboratory variances of the sun protection metrics SPFISO 24444. This all together shows that there is a justifiable need to explore the potential of alternative methods, to complement the existing methods, to serve as equivalents, or even to replace it in the future. Based on the work of Uhlig and coworkers, the authors propose to test the suitability of the alternative methods and their possible equivalency to the reference methods in a broad-based investigation, taking into account possible interlaboratory variances. A research program - developed by a consortium - is in public planning where stakeholders from research, industry, authorities, and the public can come together to facilitate and further advance standardization of the measurement of the sun protection performance. The authors give an insight into historical, technical--conceptual, and future developments of methods for -determining the protective performance of sun protection products.

摘要

自防晒产品开发之初,人们就一直致力于测量和量化此类产品的防护性能。早期建立了一种体内方法,可以在人体上对防晒性能进行评价。后来,通过建立明确的基本和实验条件,该方法在国际上得到了标准化,产生了著名的防晒因子(SPF)。该方法得到了广泛应用,如今被视为金标准方法。此后不久,又添加了其他标准化方法。然而,这些方法存在一些局限性,例如使用的辐射光谱受限、方法的侵入性、应用的复杂性以及时间和成本的密集性,这促使人们开发替代方法。最近,这些局限性又出现了另一个问题,即 SPFISO 24444 防晒指标的实验室间差异较大。所有这些都表明,有理由探索替代方法的潜力,以补充现有的方法,作为等效方法,甚至在未来取代它。基于 Uhlig 及其同事的工作,作者提出在广泛的调查中测试替代方法的适用性及其与参考方法的可能等效性,同时考虑可能的实验室间差异。一个由财团开发的研究计划正在公开规划中,研究、工业、当局和公众的利益相关者可以聚集在一起,促进和进一步推进防晒性能测量的标准化。作者深入探讨了防晒产品防护性能测定方法的历史、技术概念和未来发展。

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