Onorato Miguel, Cavaleri Luigi, Randoux Stephane, Suret Pierre, Ruiz Maria Isabel, de Alfonso Marta, Benetazzo Alvise
Dipartimento di Fisica, Università degli Studi di Torino, 10125, Turin, Italy.
Istituto Nazionale di Fisica Nucleare, INFN, Sezione di Torino, 10125, Turin, Italy.
Sci Rep. 2021 Dec 8;11(1):23606. doi: 10.1038/s41598-021-02875-y.
In many physical systems such as ocean waves, nonlinear optics, plasma physics etc., extreme events and rare fluctuations of a wave field have been widely observed and discussed. In the field of oceanography and naval architecture, their understanding is fundamental for a correct design of platforms and ships, and for performing safe operations at sea. Here, we report a measurement of an impressive and unique wave packet recorded in the Bay of Biscay in the North-East of the Atlantic Ocean. An analysis of the spatial extension of the packet that includes three large waves reveals that it extents for more than 1 km, with individual crests moving faster than 100 km/h. The central and largest wave in the packet was 27.8 m high in a sea with significant wave height of 11 m. A detailed analysis of the data using the nonlinear Fourier analysis reveals that the wave packet is characterized by a non trivial nonlinear content. This observation opens a new paradigm which requires new understanding of the dynamics of ocean waves and, more in general, of nonlinear and dispersive waves.
在许多物理系统中，如海浪、非线性光学、等离子体物理等，波场的极端事件和罕见波动已被广泛观测和讨论。在海洋学和船舶工程领域，对它们的理解是正确设计平台和船舶以及在海上进行安全作业的基础。在此，我们报告了在大西洋东北部比斯开湾记录到的一个令人印象深刻且独特的波包的测量情况。对包含三个大浪的波包空间扩展的分析表明，它的范围超过1公里，单个波峰移动速度超过100公里/小时。在有效波高为11米的海域中，波包中央最大的浪高27.8米。使用非线性傅里叶分析对数据进行的详细分析表明，该波包具有非平凡的非线性成分。这一观测结果开启了一个新的范式，需要对海浪动力学，更一般地说，对非线性和色散波动力学有新的理解。
