Anner Mark
The Pennsylvania State University.
Int Labour Rev. 2022 Mar;161(1):59-82. doi: 10.1111/ilr.12337. Epub 2022 Feb 22.
In early 2020, apparel brands and retailers cancelled US$40 billion worth of orders, with critical consequences for suppliers and workers. Their actions illustrate the power asymmetries in global supply chains and the unequal distribution of costs during crises. This article explores these dynamics through original survey data, supplier questionnaires, stakeholder interviews, a time-line analysis and trade data analysis. Findings point to certain limits of buyer power, reflected in the effective collaboration between suppliers and worker rights advocates in the "#PayUp" campaign. Yet buyers retain the power to squeeze suppliers with adverse impacts on workers, thus leading to calls for binding agreements.
2020年初，服装品牌和零售商取消了价值400亿美元的订单，给供应商和工人带来了严重后果。他们的行为揭示了全球供应链中的权力不对称以及危机期间成本的不平等分配。本文通过原始调查数据、供应商问卷、利益相关者访谈、时间线分析和贸易数据分析来探究这些动态。研究结果指出了买家权力的某些局限性，这体现在供应商与工人权利倡导者在“#PayUp”运动中的有效合作上。然而，买家仍有权挤压供应商，对工人产生不利影响，因此引发了对具有约束力协议的呼吁。
