College of Pharmacy, Korea University, Sejong-ro, Sejong, Republic of Korea.
Drug Discovery Platform Research Center, Korea Research Institute of Chemical Technology, Daejeon, Republic of Korea.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Sep;21(9):4060-4071. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14740. Epub 2022 Jan 9.
Collagen forms a dermal matrix in the skin. Biosynthesis and decomposition of collagen are the major processes in skin aging. Propolis is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds, which are known to be effective in preventing skin aging, including the enhancement of fibroblast proliferation, activation, and growth capacity.
The aim of this study was to develop a poorly soluble propolis extract as an active ingredient in cosmetic products for anti-aging efficacy.
METHODS & RESULTS: Polymeric nanoparticles containing propolis extract, polyethylene glycol 400, and poloxamer 407 were prepared via a temperature-induced phase transition method. The particle size of the polymeric nanoparticles was approximately 20.75 nm. The results of an in vitro procollagen type I carboxy-terminal peptide assay and a matrix metalloproteinase-1 inhibition assay showed that the polymeric nanoparticles increased collagen production by 19.81%-24.59% compared to blank (p < 0.05), and significantly reduced intracellular collagenase activity by 7.46%-31.52% compared to blank (p < 0.05). In a clinical trial, polymeric nanoparticles in a cosmetic formulation were applied around the eyes of 24 female subjects for 8 weeks. Five skin parameters were significantly improved after the application of the test ampoule. Visual evaluation using the Global Photo Damage Score showed a significant reduction in wrinkles after the application of the test ampoules (p < 0.001).
This study outlines the development of stable polymeric nanoparticles containing poorly soluble propolis in a cosmetic formulation, and its efficacy in wrinkle improvement. The developed polymeric nanoparticles were effective for alleviating wrinkles and can be used for pharmaceutical applications that utilize propolis as antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, antimycotic, antifungal, antibacterial, antiulcer, anticancer, and immunomodulatory agents.
胶原蛋白在皮肤中形成真皮基质。胶原蛋白的生物合成和分解是皮肤衰老的主要过程。蜂胶富含类黄酮和酚类化合物,已知这些化合物可有效预防皮肤衰老,包括增强成纤维细胞增殖、激活和生长能力。
本研究旨在开发一种难溶性蜂胶提取物作为化妆品的活性成分,以实现抗衰老功效。
采用温度诱导相转变法制备了含有蜂胶提取物、聚乙二醇 400 和泊洛沙姆 407 的聚合物纳米粒。聚合物纳米粒的粒径约为 20.75nm。体外原胶原 I 羧基末端肽测定和基质金属蛋白酶-1 抑制测定结果表明,聚合物纳米粒与空白组相比,胶原蛋白生成增加了 19.81%-24.59%(p<0.05),细胞内胶原酶活性显著降低了 7.46%-31.52%(p<0.05)。在一项临床试验中,将聚合物纳米粒在一种化妆品配方中应用于 24 名女性受试者的眼部周围,使用 8 周。应用测试安瓿后,5 个皮肤参数得到显著改善。使用全球光损伤评分进行视觉评估显示,应用测试安瓿后皱纹明显减少(p<0.001)。
本研究概述了在化妆品配方中开发含有难溶性蜂胶的稳定聚合物纳米粒及其在改善皱纹方面的功效。所开发的聚合物纳米粒可有效缓解皱纹,可用于将蜂胶作为防腐剂、抗炎剂、抗真菌剂、抗真菌剂、抗菌剂、抗溃疡剂、抗癌剂和免疫调节剂的药物应用。