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用环境友好型金属离子对人发角蛋白纤维中的单偶氮染料进行螯合。

Chelation of Monoazo Dyes in Human Hair Keratin Fibers Using Environmentally Benign Metal Ions.

机构信息

Wilson College of Textiles, North Carolina State University, 1020 Main Campus Drive, Raleigh, North Carolina 27606, United States.

出版信息

ACS Appl Bio Mater. 2021 Aug 16;4(8):6195-6202. doi: 10.1021/acsabm.1c00512. Epub 2021 Jul 19.

Abstract

The coloration of human hair keratin fibers has long involved the oxidative coupling of primarily aromatic amines and phenols inside the fibers with the aid of harsh agents such as HO and NHOH. Further, the traditional process has exposed millions of consumers and their hairstylists to toxic substances such as skin sensitizers. While alternative hair dyeing processes have been explored, they fail to be competitive with the traditional method, for reasons including impracticality and limited colors achievable. In the present study, we developed an approach to imparting color to human hair fibers that involves entrapping colorants inside hair fibers by forming chelated monoazo dyes . Dyes employed were based on monoarylide, arylazopyrazolone, and arylazonaphthol families, which display yellow, orange, and magenta colors on dyed hair. The dyes were applied at 40 °C without the use of oxidants and alkali associated with current commercial hair dyes, with the best dye uptake observed when the arylazonaphthol dye was employed. The dyed hair fibers showed good durability to washing, and treatment of these fibers with Al or Fe ions at 40 °C led to the rapid formation of 1:2 metal/dye structures. In addition, the dyed hair was soft, indicating that chelated dye occupies the interior of the fibers rather than the surface. Such an approach can be applied to the coloration of other materials, including textiles.

摘要

人类头发角蛋白纤维的着色长期以来一直涉及主要芳香胺和酚类物质在纤维内部与 HO 和 NHOH 等苛刻试剂的氧化偶联。此外,传统工艺使数百万消费者及其发型师接触到有毒物质,如皮肤敏化剂。虽然已经探索了替代染发工艺,但由于不切实际和可实现的颜色有限等原因,它们无法与传统方法竞争。在本研究中,我们开发了一种在人类头发纤维中赋予颜色的方法,该方法涉及通过形成螯合单偶氮染料将着色剂困在头发纤维内部。所使用的染料基于单芳基二亚乙基三胺、芳基偶氮吡唑酮和芳基偶氮萘酚家族,在染过的头发上显示黄色、橙色和品红色。这些染料在 40°C 下应用,无需使用与当前商业染发剂相关的氧化剂和碱,当使用芳基偶氮萘酚染料时,观察到最佳的染料吸收。染过的头发纤维对洗涤具有良好的耐久性,并且在 40°C 下用 Al 或 Fe 离子处理这些纤维会导致快速形成 1:2 金属/染料结构。此外,染过的头发柔软,表明螯合染料占据纤维的内部而不是表面。这种方法可以应用于其他材料的着色,包括纺织品。

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