Šimić Kristina, Soljačić Ivo, Mudronja Domagoj, Petrović Leš Tihana
Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia.
Natural Science Laboratory Institute, Croatian Conservation, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia.
Materials (Basel). 2021 Dec 29;15(1):251. doi: 10.3390/ma15010251.
Textile metal threads were used to decorate historical Croatian textiles. There are three basic types of metal threads usually used on historical textiles in Croatia. These are narrow stripes, wires, and combined metal textile yarn called "srma", made of metal thread spirally wrapped around the nonmetal textile yarn. Textile yarns were made of silk, linen, wool, or cotton. Metal threads were primarily made of gold, silver, and copper, and different alloys of these metals or threads are layered in the structure. Analysis of metal threads with three different methods was made and the most adequate method for the analysis of metal threads from historical textiles was established. Metal thread analysis was performed with scanning electron microscopy with an energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDX), which was determined to be the most suitable for the analysis of historical textiles if cross-section analysis of metal threads is also performed. Textile threads from combined metal textile threads were analysed with a light microscope. This information of the metal threads' content and structure as well as the composition of textile thread can lead to an understanding of the technology of production threads and also temporal and spatial dating of textile objects which is helpful to conservators and restorers of valuable historical textiles.
纺织金属线曾被用于装饰克罗地亚历史纺织品。克罗地亚历史纺织品上通常使用的金属线有三种基本类型。这些是窄条纹、金属丝，以及一种名为“srma”的复合金属纺织纱线，它由金属线螺旋缠绕在非金属纺织纱线上制成。纺织纱线由丝绸、亚麻、羊毛或棉花制成。金属线主要由金、银和铜制成，并且这些金属或线的不同合金在结构中分层。采用三种不同方法对金属线进行了分析，并确定了最适合分析历史纺织品中金属线的方法。使用配备能量色散X射线探测器的扫描电子显微镜（SEM - EDX）对金属线进行分析，如果同时对金属线进行横截面分析，该方法被确定为最适合分析历史纺织品。用光学显微镜对复合金属纺织线中的纺织线进行了分析。关于金属线的含量和结构以及纺织线成分的这些信息能够让人了解线的生产工艺，以及纺织品的年代和产地，这对珍贵历史纺织品的保护者和修复者很有帮助。
