Laboratoires Clarins, Pontoise, France.
Laboratoire GREDECO, Paris, France.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Apr;44(2):201-215. doi: 10.1111/ics.12768. Epub 2022 Mar 22.
Because they limit, even reverse, age-induced skin alterations, retinoids became a staple in cosmetology. However, their use can result in undesired secondary effects and there is a demand for natural sources of compounds with retinoid-like effects. A preliminary screening identified a Harungana madagascariensis plant extract (HME) as possibly inducing genes stimulated by retinol. We analysed its effect on gene and protein expression, comparing it to retinoids.
Gene expression was analysed by real-time qPCR on RNA from isolated fibroblasts subjected to retinol or the plant extract for 6, 48 or 96 h. Skin markers were quantified in fibroblasts cultured with retinol or extract containing medium, and UV-aged skin explants subjected to topical applications of creams containing retinol, retinaldehyde or HME.
Real-time qPCR shows that the extract induced all RARs and RXRs, even RXRγ that was not induced by retinol. Eighty-eight per cent of the 25 early retinoid reaction genes induced by a concentration of retinol are induced by the extract. In fibroblasts, only the extract increased collagen III labelling, while collagen I and fibronectin labelling are increased by retinol and the extract, with higher levels for the extract. When topically applied to UV-aged skin explants, only the cream containing the HME led to increased labelling of CRABP1 in the epidermis. CRABP2 and Ki67 are induced by all three creams and no effect was detected on RXRs. In the dermisthe extract containing cream increased CRABP2, total collagen, procollagen I and collagen I while creams with retinol or retinaldehyde only affected some of these proteins.
The HME induces an overall retinol-like gene induction profile in isolated fibroblasts and retinoid-like stimulation of protein synthesis in both isolated fibroblasts and photoaged skin explants.
由于类视黄醇可以限制甚至逆转年龄引起的皮肤变化，因此成为了美容学中的主要成分。然而，它们的使用可能会导致不良的副作用，并且人们对具有类视黄醇作用的天然化合物来源有需求。初步筛选确定了一种 Madagascar 人心果植物提取物（HME），它可能会诱导视黄醇刺激的基因。我们分析了它对基因和蛋白质表达的影响，并将其与类视黄醇进行了比较。
通过实时 qPCR 分析分离的成纤维细胞中 RNA 的基因表达，这些细胞分别用视黄醇或植物提取物处理 6、48 或 96 小时。在含有视黄醇或提取物的培养基中培养成纤维细胞，并在经紫外线处理的皮肤外植体上局部应用含有视黄醇、视黄醛或 HME 的乳膏，以定量测定皮肤标志物。
实时 qPCR 显示，该提取物诱导了所有的 RAR 和 RXR，甚至是视黄醇未诱导的 RXRγ。视黄醇诱导的 25 个早期类视黄醇反应基因中有 88%被提取物诱导。在成纤维细胞中，只有提取物增加了 III 型胶原蛋白的标记，而 I 型胶原蛋白和纤维连接蛋白的标记则是由视黄醇和提取物增加的，提取物的水平更高。当局部应用于经紫外线处理的皮肤外植体时，只有含有 HME 的乳膏会导致表皮中 CRABP1 的标记增加。CRABP2 和 Ki67 被所有三种乳膏诱导，而对 RXR 没有影响。在真皮中，含有提取物的乳膏增加了 CRABP2、总胶原蛋白、I 型前胶原和 I 型胶原蛋白，而含有视黄醇或视黄醛的乳膏仅影响其中一些蛋白质。
HME 在分离的成纤维细胞中诱导了整体类视黄醇基因诱导谱，并且在分离的成纤维细胞和光老化皮肤外植体中刺激了蛋白质的合成，具有类似视黄醇的作用。
