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甘油溶液不同浓度的保水性能:比较研究。

Moisture retention of glycerin solutions with various concentrations: a comparative study.

机构信息

Department of Food Science and Biotechnology, National Chung Hsing University, No. 145, Xingda Rd., South Dist., Taichung City, 402204, Taiwan, ROC.

Healthmate Co., Ltd., No. 14, Pinghe 1st St., Changhua City, 500016, Taiwan, ROC.

出版信息

Sci Rep. 2022 Jun 17;12(1):10232. doi: 10.1038/s41598-022-13452-2.

Abstract

Various methods of evaluating a humectant's moisture retention have unique mechanisms. Hence, for designing advanced or efficient ingredients of cosmetic products, a clear understanding of differences among methods is required. The aim of this study was to analyze the moisture-retention capacity of glycerin, a common ingredient in cosmetic products. Specifically, this study applied gravimetric analysis, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) analysis, and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to examine the evaporation of glycerin solutions of different concentrations. The results revealed that the moisture-retention capacity of glycerin increased with the glycerin concentration from 0 to 60 wt%, and glycerin at concentration of 60-70 wt% did not exhibit weight change during the evaporation process. When the glycerin concentration exceeded 70 wt%, moisture sorption occurred in the glycerin solution. Furthermore, the results revealed a deviation between the evaporation rates measured using gravimetric analysis and those measured using TEWL analysis. However, normalizing the results of these analyses yielded the relative evaporation rates to water, which were consistent between these two analyses. DSC thermograms further confirmed the consistent results and identified two hydrated water microstructures (nonfreezable water and free water) in the glycerin solutions, which explained why the measured evaporation rate decreased with the glycerin concentration. These findings can be applied to prove the moisture-retention capacity of a humectant in cosmetic products by different measuring methods.

摘要

各种评价保湿剂保湿能力的方法都有其独特的机制。因此,为了设计先进或高效的化妆品成分,需要清楚地了解这些方法之间的差异。本研究旨在分析甘油作为化妆品常见成分的保湿能力。具体而言,本研究应用重量分析、经皮水分损失 (TEWL) 分析和差示扫描量热法 (DSC) 来研究不同浓度甘油溶液的蒸发情况。结果表明,甘油的保湿能力随着甘油浓度从 0 增加到 60wt%而增加,并且在蒸发过程中浓度为 60-70wt%的甘油没有重量变化。当甘油浓度超过 70wt%时,甘油溶液会发生吸湿。此外,结果表明,重量分析和 TEWL 分析测量的蒸发速率之间存在偏差。然而,对这些分析的结果进行归一化处理得到了相对于水的相对蒸发速率,这两种分析方法之间是一致的。DSC 热图谱进一步证实了这一一致结果,并确定了甘油溶液中两种水合微观结构(不可冻结水和自由水),这解释了为什么测量的蒸发速率随甘油浓度的增加而降低。这些发现可应用于通过不同测量方法证明保湿剂在化妆品中的保湿能力。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/ffd6/9205919/98e17bb23a7c/41598_2022_13452_Fig1_HTML.jpg

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