Salem Yara, Rajha Hiba N, Franjieh Diana, Hoss Israa, Manca Maria Letizia, Manconi Maria, Castangia Ines, Perra Matteo, Maroun Richard G, Louka Nicolas
Centre d'Analyses et de Recherche, Unité de Recherche Technologies et Valorisations Agro-Alimentaire, Faculté des Sciences, Université Saint-Joseph de Beyrouth, P.O. Box 17-5208, Beirut 1104 2020, Lebanon.
Ecole Supérieure d'Ingénieurs de Beyrouth (ESIB), Université Saint-Joseph de Beyrouth, CST Mkalles Mar Roukos, Beirut 1107 2050, Lebanon.
Antioxidants (Basel). 2022 Jul 10;11(7):1348. doi: 10.3390/antiox11071348.
Grape seeds are agro-industrial by-products, which if improperly managed, may be responsible for socioeconomic and environmental problems. Nevertheless, it is possible to effectively valorize them by means of extraction of the bioactive compounds, especially the antioxidant phenolic molecules, using a safe, green, and environmentally-friendly extractive medium (i.e., hydro-glyceric solution). In the present study, the extraction was performed using seeds from two Lebanese varieties, Obeidi and Asswad Karech, and three international varieties, Marselan, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc. The type and amount of phenolic compounds were identified by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). Marselan was the extract richer in catechins (132.99 ± 9.81 μg/g of dried matter), and it also contained a higher amount of phenolic compounds (49.08 ± 0.03 mg of gallic acid equivalent/g of dry matter and 10.02 ± 0.24 mg of proanthocyanidin content/g of dry matter). The antioxidant capacity of the extracts was assessed using three different colorimetric assays including 2,2-DiPhenyl-1-PicrylHydrazyl (DPPH), CUPRIC ion Reducing Antioxidant Capacity (CUPRAC), and Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP). As expected, Marselan exhibited the highest antioxidant activity; as well, the total phenolic and proanthocyanidin content were the highest. The stability of the Marselan extract incorporated into a commercial cream, was performed at three different temperatures (4, 25, and 50 °C), and four different concentrations (5, 4, 3, 2%), over a period of 4 months, using different methods such as centrifugation, Heat-Shock Cycles, pH, and viscosity. All Marselan hydro-glyceric extract formulations were proven to be stable over the entire 4 months, where the highest stability was achieved at 4 °C and the least at 50 °C. This study supports the suitability of the incorporation of phenolic extracts into commercial creams to enrich the cosmetic industry with effective, natural, and safe skincare products.
葡萄籽是农业工业副产品,如果管理不当,可能会导致社会经济和环境问题。然而,通过使用安全、绿色且环保的萃取介质(即水甘油溶液)提取生物活性化合物,尤其是抗氧化酚类分子,可以有效地利用它们。在本研究中,使用了两个黎巴嫩品种奥贝迪(Obeidi)和阿斯瓦德·卡雷奇(Asswad Karech)以及三个国际品种马瑟兰(Marselan)、西拉(Syrah)和品丽珠(Cabernet Franc)的种子进行萃取。通过高效液相色谱法(HPLC)鉴定酚类化合物的类型和含量。马瑟兰提取物中儿茶素含量更高(132.99±9.81μg/g干物质),并且还含有更高含量的酚类化合物(49.08±0.03mg没食子酸当量/g干物质和10.02±0.24mg原花青素含量/g干物质)。使用三种不同的比色法评估提取物的抗氧化能力,包括2,2-二苯基-1-苦基肼(DPPH)、铜离子还原抗氧化能力(CUPRAC)和铁还原抗氧化能力(FRAP)。正如预期的那样,马瑟兰表现出最高的抗氧化活性;同样,总酚和原花青素含量也是最高的。将马瑟兰提取物掺入商业面霜中,在三个不同温度(4、25和50°C)和四个不同浓度(5%、4%、3%、2%)下,通过离心、热休克循环、pH值和粘度等不同方法,在4个月的时间内进行稳定性测试。所有马瑟兰水甘油提取物配方在整个4个月内都被证明是稳定的,其中在4°C时稳定性最高,在50°C时稳定性最低。这项研究支持将酚类提取物掺入商业面霜中,以用有效、天然和安全的护肤品丰富化妆品行业。