L'Oreal Research and Innovation, Aulnay-sous-Bois, France.
Institute for Melanin Chemistry, Fujita Health University, Toyoake, Japan.
Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2022 Nov;35(6):622-626. doi: 10.1111/pcmr.13062. Epub 2022 Aug 26.
Human skin contains two distinct components: brown to black, insoluble eumelanin and light colored, alkaline-soluble pheomelanin. Eumelanin consists of 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) moieties, while pheomelanin consists of benzothiazine (BT) and benzothiazole (BZ) moieties. These melanin monomer units can be quantitatively analyzed through specific degradation products by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Alkaline hydrogen peroxide oxidation (AHPO) of eumelanin gives rise to pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) and pyrrole-2,3-dicarboxylic acid (PDCA) as specific degradation products of the DHICA and DHI moieties, respectively. BZ moiety in pheomelanin can be analyzed as thiazole-2,4,5-tricarboxylic acid (TTCA). By reductive hydrolysis with hydroiodic acid, BT moieties in pheomelanin can be analyzed as 4-amino-3-hydroxyphenylalanine (4-AHP). As a recently improved AHPO-HPLC method enabled a better characterization of PDCA, this prompted us to address the question of DHI to DHICA ratio in human skin samples with varying degrees of constitutive pigmentation ranging from very light to dark. Results showed for the first time the ratio of 4 moieties: DHI 35%, DHICA 41%, BZ 20%, and BT 4%. The ratio is constant regardless of the degree of pigmentation. The high content of DHICA moiety may impart an antioxidant property to the epidermis melanin.
棕色到黑色的不溶性真黑素和浅色、碱性可溶的褐黑素。真黑素由 5,6-二羟基吲哚(DHI)和 5,6-二羟基吲哚-2-羧酸(DHICA)部分组成,而褐黑素由苯并噻嗪(BT)和苯并噻唑(BZ)部分组成。这些黑色素单体单元可以通过高效液相色谱(HPLC)通过特定的降解产物进行定量分析。真黑素的碱性过氧化氢氧化(AHPO)产生吡咯-2,3,5-三羧酸(PTCA)和吡咯-2,3-二羧酸(PDCA),分别为 DHICA 和 DHI 部分的特定降解产物。褐黑素中的 BZ 部分可以作为噻唑-2,4,5-三羧酸(TTCA)进行分析。通过氢碘酸的还原水解,褐黑素中的 BT 部分可以分析为 4-氨基-3-羟基苯丙氨酸(4-AHP)。由于最近改进的 AHPO-HPLC 方法能够更好地描述具有不同程度固有色素沉着的人皮肤样本中的 PDCA,这促使我们提出了一个问题,即 DHI 与 DHICA 的比例在从非常浅到深的不同色素沉着程度的人皮肤样本中。结果首次显示了 4 个部分的比例:DHI 35%、DHICA 41%、BZ 20%和 BT 4%。该比例与色素沉着程度无关,保持不变。DHICA 部分的高含量可能赋予表皮黑色素抗氧化特性。