Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Khon Kaen University, Khon Kaen, Thailand.
Cosmetics and Natural Products Research Center, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, Phitsanulok, Thailand.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Oct;44(5):569-587. doi: 10.1111/ics.12807. Epub 2022 Aug 17.
In the development of cosmetic products, sensory evaluation is an important step in determining consumer acceptance before it is released on a market but is often time-consuming and costly. However, correlating sensory characteristics with instrumental parameters using multivariate techniques is a potential way to facilitate the development of cosmetic products.
Sunscreen formulations varied in the content of grape seed extract (GSE) and ultraviolet (UV) filters, and benchmark products were characterized using sensory descriptive analysis and instrumental analysis. Principal Component Analysis (PCA) was applied to the panel's performance data to study how well the panelists performed compared to each other and to find an association between rheological and textural instrumental parameters of cream samples. Further, applying Partial Least Squares (PLS) regression analysis, the association between sensory attributes and instrumental parameters was analyzed. In addition, a preference for the sensory properties of the studied sunscreen products that are important for consumers living in Southeast Asia was assessed by PLS.
In this study, both the sensory and instrumental properties of all tested formulations were described well by PCA. The practicality of PLS was confirmed by an established correlation between sensory attributes from the categories of appearance (glossiness), pick-up (integrity of shape, firmness, glossiness, stringiness), and after-feel (glossiness, spreadability, stickiness) with both rheological and textural parameters. Although the instrumental analysis could not completely replace sensory evaluation, a described method applying PLS can be used as an additional cost-effective and time-saving method during the development of cosmetic products. Moreover, PLS revealed that sunscreens with a light texture and glossy appearance providing smooth skin after-feel are likely to be preferred over the thicker formulations having a residual color appearance in Southeast Asia.
Until a universal model is created, the cosmetics developers and companies can apply a described method of determining sensory properties from the instrumental parameters of their own products. Future studies will be worth exploiting the applicability of the PLS regression model on instrumental datasets predicting sensory characteristics of other sunscreen products.
在化妆品产品的开发过程中，感官评价是确定产品在投放市场前消费者接受程度的重要步骤，但通常既耗时又昂贵。然而，使用多元技术将感官特征与仪器参数相关联是促进化妆品产品开发的一种潜在方法。
防晒配方中葡萄籽油提取物（GSE）和紫外线（UV）过滤器的含量不同，基准产品采用感官描述分析和仪器分析进行了特征描述。主成分分析（PCA）应用于小组的性能数据，以研究小组成员之间的表现如何，并找到乳膏样品流变学和质地仪器参数之间的关联。此外，应用偏最小二乘法（PLS）回归分析，分析感官属性与仪器参数之间的关联。此外，还通过 PLS 评估了对在东南亚生活的消费者重要的研究防晒产品感官特性的偏好。
在这项研究中，通过 PCA 很好地描述了所有测试配方的感官和仪器特性。通过在感官属性类别（光泽度）、拾取（形状完整性、硬度、光泽度、弹性）和后感（光泽度、延展性、粘性）与流变学和质地参数之间建立的相关性，证实了 PLS 的实用性。尽管仪器分析不能完全替代感官评估，但可以使用描述的 PLS 方法作为化妆品产品开发过程中的一种额外的具有成本效益和节省时间的方法。此外，PLS 表明，在东南亚，具有轻盈质感和光泽外观、提供光滑皮肤后感的防晒霜比具有残留颜色外观的较厚配方更有可能受到青睐。
在创建通用模型之前，化妆品开发人员和公司可以应用一种描述性方法，根据产品的仪器参数确定感官特性。未来的研究将值得探索 PLS 回归模型在预测其他防晒产品感官特征的仪器数据集上的适用性。
