Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Khon Kaen University, Khon Kaen, Thailand.
Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Cosmetics, Natural Products Research Center, Naresuan University, Phitsanulok, Thailand.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4523-4535. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14982. Epub 2022 May 2.
Asian skin undergoing chronological aging, accumulates signs of photoaging mediated by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Although sunscreens are effective in preventing signs of photoaging, polyphenol-rich extracts, for example, grape seed extract (GSE) can provide additional protection through the broad spectrum of biological activities.
To access the effectiveness of a sunscreen formulation containing GSE as an important cosmetic ingredient for the improvement of age-related changes in Asian skin using noninvasive evaluation techniques.
Noninvasive methods were used to assess changes in the biophysical properties corresponding to aging signs including melanin and erythema indices, color parameters of the CIE Lab* system, elasticity, and hydration of the forearm skin before and after applying the sunscreen with GSE. In addition, to confirm the effectiveness of the tested product, we compared it with benchmark sunscreen, and a cream base containing either GSE or UV filters.
Twice-daily application of sunscreen containing 3% GSE significantly reduced the level of melanin and erythema and improved overall skin tone. The hydration was drastically increased after 3 h of wearing formulation and was maintained relatively high for 5 h. Skin elasticity parameters, including Young's modulus, retraction time, and viscoelasticity, improved in participants of all age categories (35-59 years). Moreover, sunscreen with GSE, as acclaimed by participants, improved overall skin appearance.
The balancing potential of GSE on the skin, combined with the photoprotective properties of UV filters demonstrated an added value as an anti-aging agent and proved efficacy for both photo- and chronologically-aged Asian skin.
亚洲皮肤随着时间的推移而衰老，长期暴露在紫外线下会积累光老化的迹象。虽然防晒霜可以有效预防光老化迹象，但富含多酚的提取物，如葡萄籽提取物 (GSE)，可以通过广泛的生物活性提供额外的保护。
评估含有 GSE 的防晒霜配方作为一种重要的化妆品成分，通过非侵入性评估技术，改善亚洲皮肤与年龄相关的变化的有效性。
使用非侵入性方法评估生物物理特性的变化，这些变化与衰老迹象相对应，包括黑色素和红斑指数、CIE Lab*系统的颜色参数、弹性和前臂皮肤的水分含量，在涂抹含有 GSE 的防晒霜前后进行评估。此外，为了确认测试产品的有效性，我们将其与基准防晒霜以及含有 GSE 或紫外线滤光片的乳膏基进行了比较。
每天两次涂抹含有 3%GSE 的防晒霜可显著降低黑色素和红斑水平，改善整体肤色。涂抹配方 3 小时后，水分含量急剧增加，并在 5 小时内保持相对较高水平。所有年龄段（35-59 岁）参与者的皮肤弹性参数，包括杨氏模量、回缩时间和粘弹性，都有所改善。此外，参与者称赞含有 GSE 的防晒霜改善了整体皮肤外观。
GSE 对皮肤的平衡潜力，结合紫外线滤光片的光保护特性，作为一种抗衰老剂具有附加价值，并证明对光老化和时间老化的亚洲皮肤均有效。
