Research & Development Department, Ichimaru Pharcos Co., Ltd., Gifu, Japan.
Faculty of Applied Biological Science, Gifu University, Gifu, Japan.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2023 Feb;45(1):1-13. doi: 10.1111/ics.12815. Epub 2022 Oct 17.
An important factor in the aging of the face is a reduction in the volume of adipose tissue. This reduction in adipose tissue contributes to decreased skin elasticity, which is also part of the aging process. Overall, these lead to wrinkle formation. Fat injection is a common means of addressing this issue and is used to reduce the effects of aging on the face and to increase the fullness of the lips and breasts. However, fat injection is an invasive surgical procedure. This study aimed to discover novel cosmetic ingredients that increase the volume of subcutaneous (pre)adipocytes to create the appearance of more youthful skin.
We focused on the number of subcutaneous preadipocytes and the accumulation of lipid droplets. To discover natural ingredients that increase both of these, extracts of 380 natural products were prepared and screened for their effects on both growth and differentiation (i.e., lipid droplet accumulation) of human subcutaneous preadipocytes. One extract was found to have the desired effects, and this was further studied to determine the active compounds. We then evaluated its efficacy in a human clinical study.
We found that Arnica montana L. flower extract (AFE) accelerates both the growth and the differentiation of human subcutaneous preadipocytes. AFE was found to significantly increase the volume of adipocyte spheroids. The active compounds 6-O-methacryloylhelenalin and 6-O-isobutyrylhelenalin were found to be responsible for the effects of AFE on preadipocytes. In a human clinical study, gels containing 1% AFE successfully enhanced the volume of the lips and face with reduction of wrinkles with no adverse reactions.
This is the first report to demonstrate that AFE and the included compounds, 6-O-methacryloylhelenalin and 6-O-isobutyrylhelenalin, act on preadipocytes. AFE would be ideal for use in products that plump the face to reduce wrinkles and create a more youthful appearance.
面部衰老的一个重要因素是脂肪组织体积减少。这种脂肪组织的减少导致皮肤弹性降低，这也是衰老过程的一部分。总的来说，这会导致皱纹的形成。脂肪注射是解决这个问题的常用方法，用于减少面部衰老的影响，增加嘴唇和乳房的丰满度。然而，脂肪注射是一种有创的手术过程。本研究旨在发现增加皮下（前）脂肪细胞体积的新型美容成分，以创造更年轻的皮肤外观。
我们专注于皮下前脂肪细胞的数量和脂滴的积累。为了发现既能增加这两者的天然成分，我们制备了 380 种天然产物的提取物，并筛选了它们对人体皮下前脂肪细胞的生长和分化（即脂滴积累）的影响。发现一种提取物具有所需的效果，并进一步研究确定了其有效成分。然后我们在一项人体临床研究中评估了它的功效。
我们发现，山金车花（Arnica montana L.）花提取物（AFE）加速了人体皮下前脂肪细胞的生长和分化。AFE 被发现显著增加了脂肪细胞球体的体积。活性化合物 6-O-丙烯酰基 helenalin 和 6-O-异丁酰基 helenalin 被发现对 AFE 对前脂肪细胞的作用负责。在一项人体临床研究中，含有 1%AFE 的凝胶成功地增强了嘴唇和面部的体积，减少了皱纹，没有不良反应。
这是第一个报道表明 AFE 和包含的化合物，6-O-丙烯酰基 helenalin 和 6-O-异丁酰基 helenalin，作用于前脂肪细胞。AFE 非常适合用于丰满面部以减少皱纹并创造更年轻的外观的产品。
