Research and Development Center, Shanghai JAKA Biotech. Co. LTD, Shanghai, China.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Feb;22(2):651-660. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15461. Epub 2022 Nov 7.
Small molecular natural products, such as betaine, have unique moisturizing advantages. Capparis spinosa L. fruit is rich in quaternary ammonium alkaloids such as betaine and stachydrine. However, few studies investigated its efficacy and mechanism on human skin.
Polysaccharides-free C. spinosa fruit extract (CS) was obtained to study its moisturizing effect and mechanisms focusing on filaggrin (FLG) synthesis and degradation.
The clinical moisturizing test was carried out on human arms, calves, and faces after CS treatment for 0.5-6 h. The change in the level of FLG, caspase 14, loricrin, and transglutaminase 5 (TGM 5) was measured by immunofluorescence after CS treatment for 4 and 24 h in a reconstructed epidermis model. Also, the content of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) in the stratum corneum was tested by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) both in the epidermis model and human calves.
Compared with glycerin (positive control), 5% CS showed a strong skin hydration effect on arms and calves when applied for 0.5-6 h. Also, the face hydration increased at 0.5 and 4 h. In addition, 3% CS applied to the recombinant epidermis model under low humidity promoted the immunodetected levels of caspase 14 and PCA content but reduced the levels of FLG at 4 h, however, the levels of FLG, loricrin, and TGM 5 were promoted at 24 h. Meanwhile, CS treatment for 4 h in human calves increased the PCA content in the stratum corneum by 29.9%.
Topical application of CS on human skin showed an instant and long-lasting increase in skin hydration by regulating the FLG network. It promoted FLG degradation to form PCA at 4 h both in vivo and in vitro, increasing FLG synthesis after 24 h, potentially reforming the FLG monomer reservoir to alleviate the skin's dry condition.
小分子天然产物，如甜菜碱，具有独特的保湿优势。山萮菜果实富含甜菜碱和斯氏枸橼碱等季铵生物碱。然而，很少有研究探讨其对人体皮肤的功效和机制。
获得无多糖的山萮菜果实提取物（CS），研究其保湿作用及其机制，重点研究丝聚合蛋白（FLG）的合成和降解。
在 CS 处理后 0.5-6 h 对人体手臂、小腿和面部进行临床保湿测试。在重建表皮模型中，CS 处理 4 和 24 h 后，通过免疫荧光法测量 FLG、半胱氨酸蛋白酶 14（caspase 14）、兜甲蛋白和转谷氨酰胺酶 5（TGM 5）的水平变化。此外，通过高效液相色谱法（HPLC）在表皮模型和人体小腿中测试角蛋白层中的吡咯烷酮羧酸（PCA）含量。
与甘油（阳性对照）相比，5% CS 在 0.5-6 h 内对手臂和小腿具有较强的皮肤保湿效果。此外，面部保湿在 0.5 和 4 h 时增加。此外，在低湿度下，3% CS 应用于重组表皮模型可促进免疫检测到的 caspase 14 水平和 PCA 含量，但在 4 h 时降低了 FLG 水平，但在 24 h 时促进了 FLG、兜甲蛋白和 TGM 5 的水平。同时，CS 在人体小腿中处理 4 h 可使角蛋白层中的 PCA 含量增加 29.9%。
CS 对人体皮肤的局部应用可通过调节 FLG 网络即刻和长期增加皮肤水分。它促进了 4 h 时体内和体外 PCA 的形成，增加了 24 h 时 FLG 的合成，可能重塑了 FLG 单体库，以缓解皮肤干燥状况。
