Mijas Gabriela, Josa Mariona, Cayuela Diana, Riba-Moliner Marta
Terrassa Institute of Textile Research and Industrial Cooperation (INTEXTER), Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC), 08222 Terrassa, Spain.
Department of Materials Science and Engineering (CEM), Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC-ESEIAAT), 08222 Terrassa, Spain.
Polymers (Basel). 2022 Oct 25;14(21):4508. doi: 10.3390/polym14214508.
The objective of this work was to assess the possibility of dyeing a substrate composed of non-textile industrial hemp using natural dyes from common madder ( L.) and calendula () and tannin and alum as mordants. The substrate used for the dyeing had a 25/75 hemp/cotton composition. The hemp raw material is an agricultural by-product that was subjected to mechanical and chemical treatments in order to cottonize the fibers, blend them with cotton, and thus obtain first 40-tex open-end yarns and then a knitted fabric. The latter was subjected to different dyeing conditions by varying the dye, mordant, and method for its application, type of water, and rinsing after dyeing. Measurements of the difference (ΔE) and intensity (K/S) of color and fastness to washing and rubbing were carried out. The results showed that dyeing of a non-textile residual hemp substrate is possible, and that calendula is a good option for dyeing it with tap water, tannin-alum set in a meta-mordanting process, and rinsing after 24 h. In this way, a contribution has been made to the circular economy of the textile industry through the use of more sustainable sources and products.
这项工作的目的是评估使用来自普通茜草（L.）和金盏花（）的天然染料以及单宁和明矾作为媒染剂对由非纺织工业大麻制成的基材进行染色的可能性。用于染色的基材由25/75的大麻/棉组成。大麻原料是一种农业副产品，经过机械和化学处理以使纤维棉化，将它们与棉花混合，从而首先获得40特克斯的气流纺纱，然后获得针织物。通过改变染料、媒染剂及其应用方法、水的类型以及染色后的漂洗，对后者进行不同的染色条件处理。进行了颜色差异（ΔE）和强度（K/S）以及耐洗和摩擦牢度的测量。结果表明，对非纺织残留大麻基材进行染色是可能的，并且金盏花是用自来水染色、在媒染过程中使用单宁 - 明矾以及在24小时后漂洗的良好选择。通过使用更可持续的来源和产品，为纺织工业的循环经济做出了贡献。
