Walsh A, Seifert L, Button C, Vial S, Croft J
Centre for Health Ageing, Health Futures Institute, Murdoch University, Perth, Australia.
Centre of Exercise and Sport Science Research, School of Medical and Health Sciences, Edith Cowan University, Perth, Australia.
Sports Biomech. 2023 Feb 27:1-13. doi: 10.1080/14763141.2023.2182703.
In rock climbing, climbers use their arms to regulate their posture on the wall, which can lead to localised muscle fatigue. Evidence shows fatigue is the primary cause of falls, but little is known about how fatigue specifically affects climbing rhythm and hand movements. The present study examined climbing fluidity and hand movements on an indoor climbing wall before and after a specific fatiguing protocol. Seventeen climbers completed three repetitions of a challenging climbing route (21 on Ewbank scale) with different levels of localised arm fatigue. Climbers' movements were tracked using 3D motion capture, and their hand actions assessed using notational analysis. Seventy markers were used to create 15 rigid body segments and the participants' centre of mass. The global entropy index was calculated on the path of the participants' centre of mass. Climbers fell more often when fatigued, but there were no significant differences in hip jerk or global entropy index when fatigued. No significant differences were found between the number of exploratory or performatory hand movements with different amounts of fatigue. The results suggest that localised arm fatigue affects a climber's ability to prevent themselves from falling, but it does not specifically affect their fluidity.
在攀岩运动中，攀岩者用手臂来调节他们在岩壁上的姿势，这可能会导致局部肌肉疲劳。有证据表明疲劳是导致坠落的主要原因，但对于疲劳如何具体影响攀岩节奏和手部动作，人们了解甚少。本研究考察了在特定疲劳方案前后，室内攀岩墙上的攀岩流畅性和手部动作。17名攀岩者完成了具有挑战性的攀岩路线（尤班克难度等级为21级）的三次重复攀爬，每次攀爬的局部手臂疲劳程度不同。使用三维动作捕捉技术跟踪攀岩者的动作，并使用符号分析评估他们的手部动作。使用70个标记点创建15个刚体节段和参与者的质心。在参与者质心的轨迹上计算全局熵指数。疲劳时攀岩者坠落更频繁，但疲劳时髋部加速度或全局熵指数没有显著差异。不同疲劳程度下探索性或执行性手部动作的数量没有显著差异。结果表明，局部手臂疲劳会影响攀岩者防止自己坠落的能力，但不会特别影响他们的流畅性。
