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攀岩过程中重复攀爬导致的几何熵变化。

Change in geometric entropy with repeated ascents in rock climbing.

机构信息

Exercise Science Laboratory, Northern Michigan University, Marquette, MI, USA.

Empowering Health by Physical Activity, Exercise and Nutrition (MOVE-IT) Research group and Department of Physical Education, Faculty of Education Sciences, University of Cádiz, Cádiz, Spain.

出版信息

Sports Biomech. 2021 Dec;20(8):1031-1040. doi: 10.1080/14763141.2019.1635636. Epub 2019 Jul 30.

Abstract

Lower geometric entropy (GE) could represent more economical movement in rock climbing. Repetition of a climbing route decreases energy expenditure (EE), however, association with changes in GE has not been studied. The purpose of this study was to observe changes in GE with repetition of a climbing route relative to changes in EE. Nine climbers completed nine ascents each, one week apart, on an indoor climbing structure. Digital video was recorded at 30 Hz and a marker point was digitised as an estimate of a climber's centre of mass position (CM). The displacement of CM was expressed as the length of the line of motion (LM). GE was calculated as ln((2 x LM)/CH)) where CH is the value of the convex hull about the LM. Indirect energy expenditure (EE) was calculated from expired air by the Weir method. Data were analysed for ascents 1 (A1), 3 (A3), 6 (A6) and 9 (A9) and compared via repeated measures ANOVA. GE was significantly different for A1 vs A6 and A9 (p < 0.05) and not different for other comparisons. GE was correlated with EE; r = 0.67 (p < 0.01). Climbers reduce geometric entropy with route familiarity and the lower entropy may be associated with lower energy expenditure.

摘要

下式几何熵 (GE) 可表示攀岩运动中更经济的运动方式。重复攀爬同一路线可降低能量消耗 (EE),但与 GE 变化的关联尚未得到研究。本研究的目的是观察重复攀爬同一路线时 GE 的变化与 EE 的变化。9 名攀岩者每周相隔一周,在室内攀岩结构上完成了 9 次攀爬。数字视频以 30 Hz 的频率记录,一个标记点被数字化,作为攀岩者质心位置 (CM) 的估计值。CM 的位移表示为运动线 (LM) 的长度。GE 计算为 ln((2 x LM)/CH)),其中 CH 是 LM 凸包的值。间接能量消耗 (EE) 通过 Weir 法从呼出的空气中计算得出。对第 1 次(A1)、第 3 次(A3)、第 6 次(A6)和第 9 次(A9)攀爬进行了数据分析,并通过重复测量 ANOVA 进行了比较。A1 与 A6 和 A9 的 GE 存在显著差异(p<0.05),而其他比较则没有差异。GE 与 EE 相关;r=0.67(p<0.01)。随着路线的熟悉,攀岩者的下式几何熵降低,较低的熵可能与较低的能量消耗有关。

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